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Umm yes!

Have you checked the top of the gearbox as when you select 2/4 you could be popping them off slightly.

Sorry missed your other question but PCV on the throttle body is certainly worth cleaning or replacing if required.

Do you have an OBD reader? It might be throttle pedal and/or connections but this will be stored as an error. Another possibility is brake/clutch sensors under the pedals but unlikely.

These cars can ‘kangaroo’ at low revs but this might be your throttle body, I would take it off and give it a clean.

Only one bolt (top right of pic) if you want to remove, use brake cleaner (not water) and tbh it’s a pain to clean and probably not worth it. FYI there is a sequence to torquing the sump back on if you haven’t seen it already.

I used to work for 3T based in Newbury which I would recommend if you are looking for a business. https://www.3t-am.com/

You want to do 8 before 7, ie. the system is under pressure when you close the valves.

Fairly sure the procedure is detailing the commands for Clio II, which are equivalent to what you see on Clip but with a different ID. ie. AC004 == AC154

I wouldn't class a change in cams as 'stock internals'

Yes you need to remove the 4 bolts but no you don’t need to drop the box oil.

222 from a stock engine?

Cheers, the track just felt right in the Clio by the end of the weekend, need to make another visit!

Left Friday morning for a 4 hour drive up to Oulton, arrived in time to sign on for the afternoon testing session. 2 sessions, each 35 minutes, complete waste of money. First session lasted 20 minutes before a red which drained the remainder of the 35 minute session, 8 laps completed. Track...

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-5cxj3-K7wF21MOz6Kgasy9cnjGtu_vh

Yeah I tried that, the issue seems to be with the top mounts there is just hardly any movement, from memory it was about 10mm from being able to get out of the hub.

Been a bit rubbish with updates recently, anyway obviously had the clutch to change after Silverstone DNF so decided to take the entire front end off. The reason is because with the longer driveshafts and AST top mounts it’s not possible to remove the engine or box without taking the shafts...

Haha, yeah it’s just the wheeler ones that have the further RC adjustment. Glad the spring change worked out :thumb:

I didn’t think the pure ones actually adjusted the height of the subframe?

Sure thing, insta is always the easiest.