Recent content by aaron-rs197

so i ended up fixing this by taking a chance and replacing just the voltage regulator, in situ, which was a bit of a pain to do as i am still recovering a broken finger on my good hand lol :sob: - took about an hour start to finish. not sure if this has been documented yet but for future...

so i find myself in the market for a replacement alternator as mine randomly died with no warning whatsoever yesterday between trips.. low battery fault on dash 20-30 secs after starting. all tests and checks with clip and my trusty fluke 117 are pointing towards a faulted alternator... (earths...

i believe the renault CLIP software can do this

sounds like an issue with computers on the multiplex network not handshaking properly? you'll need a copy of the service manual and access to CLiP software to investigate this further. i'll try attach some screensnips from the manual relating to this issue which may help you.

nice spec. my charged 197 is in for an Ecumaster EMU black standalone to be fitted as we speak. I was thinking about having a BT module fitted to it and using a tablet as a digital dash. Do you use the BT module for that purpose or is it more for logging?

also another thing im not sure about, maybe someone can clarify.. if the car has been decatted, shouldnt the pre and post 02 sensors be reading the same. or are they looking for different things? would i be right in thinking in the case of a decat if the post sensor was seeing the same readings...

yeah the pre-cat is operating normally - oscillates between 0v and 1v. the post cat sensor sits dead on 0.45v what i don't understand is how the long term fuel trim can be sat at 0% while the short term is up at 50,60 even 70%!!

short term fuel trim is like +50% to +60% on idle and long term fuel trim is stuck on 0%. there is another reading which i am not sure about. the one in green is stuck at -100%. can anyone shed any light on this reading plz? thanks

no worries. thanks i'll have a look at that then. can you point me toward any useful resources on what good values should look like under different scenarios at all ?

i've spoke to a couple rs specialists on the phone who suspect it may be an injector issue. before taking it in to one of them (there are all like 200 miles away from me), i'd like to have a go at diagnosing myself, if its possible.

hi all. im suspecting an injector may not be fully working at idle/low revs. any tips on how i could diagnose? is this something i could monitor with obd scanner or clip?

I’m led to believe the post o2 sensor should not fluctuate like the pre sensor does. Post should be steady 0.4ish v. If it mirrors the pre sensor, its a sign of failed cat. Most likely due to lots of city driving.

the 2nd and 3rd time i gently blip the throttle to 2k rpm and let it idle, it goes way down then struggles to keep itself alive and then eventually idles out at 800rpm ish. maybe one time out of 20 it will stall completely.

i'll get some pics of the old ones in a bit. the high revs was sorted. took throttle body off, it was seized up. cleaned up with some wd40 and now ok (ish) does get stuck for a bit if i open the butterfly right up and hold it there. thing is, i took it off a couple weeks ago and cleaned it up so...