How hard is Clio 200 paint

[Craig211]

So how hard is clio paint? I've just bought a das6 polisher along with menzerna pf2200 and sf4000 on recommendation from a local detailing company (polishedbliss) also using lake county foam pads (cyan and magenta)

They described the paint as intermediate and recommended these products (which they sell as a kit) for a Renault I've managed to remove almost all the swirls with just a couple of deeper scratches left on the roof which was factory painted black, but on moving to the glacier white parts of the car it seems to be taking a lot longer,

Are polished bliss correct with there assessment of paint hardness and are the products I have suitable, the roof only took about 4 applications with the da so expected the sides to be the same but after the 4 passes it seems to not changed much, I've watched countless videos on YouTube and polishedbliss were more than happy to help with the technique, but Thot some of the guys on here would have more specialist knowledge of the "enamel" Renault have used to cover these motors.

 

[Chris]

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pdfs/painthardness.pdf

Handy table, but its not 100% accurate.

The only way to determine your paint thickness is with a paint thickness gauge, they're expensive though.



Both Pf2200 and Sf4400 are for intermediate-hard paints


The Cyan pad is for hard cutting, unless you have deep swirls id avoid that.
Don't know about the magenta, id assume it'd be for light cutting.


I quite like hex pads from Chemical guys.

 

[Craig211]

Okay cheers, I have been using the cyan pad which worked wonders on the roof but not very effective at the white paint, used the magenta and the sf4000 to finish for that high gloss shine (also never even noticed before that the black is metallic)
[MENTION=29138]Chris91[/MENTION] which chemical guys pads should I be looking at, the options for machine polishing are endless haha before it was easy to choose something to clean the car, and now my roof is looking great I just want to get that mirror shine all over

 

[Stephenvenning]

The orange and black hexlogic pads are really good. I use them with gtechniq p1 and it remove 99% of defects bar deep scratches. Its all down to preference and what works for you. Paint also varies in hardness from car to car due to certain variables when the car was sprayed.

 

[Chris]

Yeh the black hex pad is really good for finishing off with maybe a glaze.

The orange is for medium-heavy cutting, so would be good for the polishes you have.


http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/chemical-guys-hexlogic-pads/cat_82.html



Just avoid the yellow one as that is for seriously heavy swirls/defects.

 

[Chrisgti6]

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pdfs/painthardness.pdf

Handy table, but its not 100% accurate.

The only way to determine your paint thickness is with a paint thickness gauge, they're expensive though.

Paint thickness and paint hardness are 2 different things. The paint gauge won't tell you if the paint is hard or not, just how thick it is (to stop you cutting through it etc).

My advice would be to take it easy, maybe practice on an old panel before you take to your pride and joy!

 

[Chris]

Yeh my bad, what was I typing

 

[Craig211]

So looking at cleanmycar would:
starting on orange with pf2000
then white with sf4000
then apply a glaze with black

would that be a good idea?

Way too many pads and polishes out there it's crazy!

 

[Chris]

Technically yes, but really you don't need to polish the car twice, you need to look at what your car needs, if it needs the more heavy cut then use the first option, and if you just need a light polish then use the other option.

Glaze is a good option after also, and yes, the black pad is perfect for that. But make sure you wax after or the effort you go into is in vain.

 

[Craig211]

Ah okay cheers Chris will get on it soon once this bloody hurricane fecks off!

 

[detail1]

Technically yes, but really you don't need to polish the car twice, you need to look at what your car needs, if it needs the more heavy cut then use the first option, and if you just need a light polish then use the other option.

Glaze is a good option after also, and yes, the black pad is perfect for that. But make sure you wax after or the effort you go into is in vain.

Sorry if I misunderstood, but you would need to follow up with a 2nd stage of refining if opting for a heavy cut on the 1st stage?

 

[detail1]

To the OP, Renault paint is very hard on the solid colours, can't comment on the metallics so much, but my own car is RB and it is possibly the toughest finish I've machined in a very long time.
Have you considered the Meguiar Microfiber cutting pads, I use them with FG400 or Scholl S3 to good effect on correction details.

 

[Stephenvenning]

To the OP, Renault paint is very hard on the solid colours, can't comment on the metallics so much, but my own car is RB and it is possibly the toughest finish I've machined in a very long time.
Have you considered the Meguiar Microfiber cutting pads, I use them with FG400 or Scholl S3 to good effect on correction details.

Ive used the mequirs micro fibre, very good and the pads last a long time. I found the meguirs polish has a lot of fillers in so I might try them with a different polish like you've said like chemical guys v range and see how that fairs.

 

[Craig211]

To the OP, Renault paint is very hard on the solid colours, can't comment on the metallics so much, but my own car is RB and it is possibly the toughest finish I've machined in a very long time.
Have you considered the Meguiar Microfiber cutting pads, I use them with FG400 or Scholl S3 to good effect on correction details.

I did look at microfibre pads but as they say it's a rough cut and as I'm new to this machine polishing lark I would rather start off softish so I don't need a respray, as I gain confidence and the skills required I can maybe buy more aggressive products

 

[Stephenvenning]

I did look at microfibre pads but as they say it's a rough cut and as I'm new to this machine polishing lark I would rather start off softish so I don't need a respray, as I gain confidence and the skills required I can maybe buy more aggressive products

Micro fibre pads are far less risk than foam pads. They are a good starter pad IMO

 

[detail1]

Ive used the mequirs micro fibre, very good and the pads last a long time. I found the meguirs polish has a lot of fillers in so I might try them with a different polish like you've said like chemical guys v range and see how that fairs.

All polishes have an element of fillers, but if you panel wipe or ipa the surface after each set, it doesn't really matter.

I did look at microfibre pads but as they say it's a rough cut and as I'm new to this machine polishing lark I would rather start off softish so I don't need a respray, as I gain confidence and the skills required I can maybe buy more aggressive products

You can control the cut with them by using different polishes and techniques, alternatively good results can be had with the microfibre finishing pad and different levels of polish.