Hardest Job I've Ever Done On A Car.....

Anyone who's been on my website will know that i'm pretty savvy when it comes to home mechanics - Diff changes, clutch changes, i've even built an Evo 9 from bits like a jigsaw puzzle .... well today i half completed the hardest job i've done to date - getting the bloody exhaust manifold off and back onto a Clio!!!!

I was told it would be difficult, and it certainly was! :jumpon:
 

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And all because of the manifold cracking on cylinders 2 & 3 ....
 

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How did you realise they were cracked rich? Fair play on doing it yourself mate!!!
 
lol - well it took me 6hrs total, and my backs pretty dam sore :huh:

I was going to originally do a "how to" but once i got under the car i realised that with zero knowledge of how a Clio is put together it was a no go :worried:

I used the "undo this and see what happens method" - proved interesting :rofl:

The basics were :

1. Unbolt bottom rear engine mount and all subframe rear fixings.

2. Slacken front subframe fixings.

3. Pull subframe down at the back, unbolt steering rack, headlight adjustment switch (xenon model) and anti-roll bar from subframe.

4. Unbolt anti-roll bar from drop links.

5. Support subframe and remove front subframe fixings.

6. This leaves the whole subframe/lower arms/hubs held up by only the top strut mountings (3 off 13mm bolts)

7. Remove the strut top mounting bolts, and lower subframe/arms/hubs. Lower too far and the brake lines will be stretched!

8. Remove insulation from bulkhead.

9. Unbolt manifold at each end.

10. Remove manifold sliding it between the dropped subframe and the car body - not as easy as it sounds!!!

Things i found out :

No need to support the engine, it just hangs there on the east / west engine mounts at each side. The subframe has nothing to do with the mounting of the engine or gearbox.

The steering rack has to be pulled as far down as you can get it without disconnecting it from the steering column.

Using a scissor jack between the lower bulkhead and gearbox bell housing will push the engine forward at the bottom giving you more clearance (alternatively use rope tied somewhere at the front and pull the engine forward).

Reading how to do it on 172/182 forums doesn't help, possibly adds confusion.

If you can afford it, let someone else do it :tongueout:




To be fair the only things now keeping the subframe from coming completely off are the driveshafts and brake lines in answer to your question Si :smile:

In hind sight it may have been easier to undo the lower arms from the subframe, and leave the suspension and hubs in situ, i'm not sure, it just went the way it went :smile:
 
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How did you realise they were cracked rich? Fair play on doing it yourself mate!!!


Cheers Mike :smile:

The exhaust sounded like it was blowing slightly when cold, once warmed up it went away. Over the period of the next 1000 miles (4 months as i don't really use the car much) it became worse, to the point where you could hear it slightly blowing all the time, especially when driving down a narrow street with the windows down.

I thought it was just the gasket that had gone, but realised it wasn't when i used an inspection mirror to look at the manifold and saw the black soot above the welds :worried:

From what i can gather its a common issue when the engine mounts become tired and start allowing the engine to move too much, i presume it must the top and bottom mounts allowing the engine to swing back and forth, unless its simply the weight of the exhaust, although my engine does seem to move alot when i push on it, not sure if that's normal or not?
 
Rich, not hugely familiar with the engine mounts on these, but wary of the same thing happening on mine. How many mounts are there? I know on my last car there were east / west mounts and a dog bone mount at the rear, with the dog bone being key to preventing engine movement, is it the same on the Clio?
 
Fair play to you for doing it yourself Rich. Its not something I would ever attempt, after 2hrs I would have but the bloody thing off and worried about putting a new one in later lol! My engine also has a fair degree of movement and I have even looked at the K-tec engine mounts. Fortunately mine doesn't sound like it is blowing though.
 
How many mounts are there? I know on my last car there were east / west mounts and a dog bone mount at the rear, with the dog bone being key to preventing engine movement, is it the same on the Clio?

Four mounts; east / west, top mount to cam belt cover, and the dog bone which is at the bottom of the engine, again, cambelt end of engine. I read somewhere you cannot tell they are worn, you just have to replace them, though as you say, it will be the dog bone thats doing most of the work i imagine.


My engine also has a fair degree of movement and I have even looked at the K-tec engine mounts

I looked at them too, though the expense is far too great. To me they should have them half that price, and go for volume over large profit :biggrin:


Rather you than me Rich, I would have given up and cried lol

When the car was all in bits and the manifold still wouldnt come out i wasnt far off :shout:


:thumbup1:
 
yes its a ****ter of a job as i changed mine once . its alot easier to get the thing back on than it was to get it out !!!
 
i wouldnt of minded giving you hand - i was off work yesterday !


LOL - typical :-p

Just talking the manifold for welding now, hopefully will have the car back up and running for tonight :smile:

One of the ARB drop links decided to not play ball yesterday, got the nut almost off and the allen key which you hold the ball joint still with spun in the hole, so got to sort that too, otherwise the grinder will be out and new drop link in lol :smile:
 
LOL - typical :-p

Just talking the manifold for welding now, hopefully will have the car back up and running for tonight :smile:

One of the ARB drop links decided to not play ball yesterday, got the nut almost off and the allen key which you hold the ball joint still with spun in the hole, so got to sort that too, otherwise the grinder will be out and new drop link in lol :smile:

just split the nut with a quality cold chisel - cheaper to get a nut than a drop link!
 
just split the nut with a quality cold chisel - cheaper to get a nut than a drop link!


Good thinking, only issue being is locking the ball joint back up for when i tighten the new nut? With the hole for the allen key rounded it'll be a struggle :worried: Could try slotting it for a flat screwdriver :wink:

Got the manifold back on, took around ten minutes to slide it into position and pull it up from above the engine. Fitted my new secret weapon - you already know about this one Si :wink: .... pics to follow as left camera at my old fellas... and that was it!

Going to start the car tomorrow and check there's no blowing from anywhere, then raise the subframe back up into position :smile:
 
Be careful when putting the subframe back in place, I had mine out 4 months ago and when putting the subframe back in, wires got caught up between the sub frame and the car body, ending up nipping the wires!!! The car then wouldnt start etc had to take it to renault to diagnose the problem, was a right pain in the arse!!

So make sure to have a good look!!! :book:
As for the nuts on the drop links, get plenty of wd40 on them!!! I sprayed mine and left them for a few hours and they all came off with no problems!!
 
Good thinking, only issue being is locking the ball joint back up for when i tighten the new nut? With the hole for the allen key rounded it'll be a struggle :worried: Could try slotting it for a flat screwdriver :wink:

or square the end off with a file - or lever it in position to stop it spinning and run a new nut down