Fast Road/Track Ultra Red 197

[VeiRoNv2]

Personally I just wanted a shifter that fits closer to the steering wheel,the ZPO doesn't shift any better than the original imo lol.

It’s certainly shorter and yes probably more satisfying, as it’s always 50/50 as to whether you’re actually going to get into the right gear.

Well,on mine I can't quite select third gear at higher revs,seems like it needs to be adjusted so it sits a bit more to the left in neutral,I thought it was plug and play lol.

I don't quite get the ZPO hype. I used to run a Coolerworx in my old R53 and it was quite cool for what it was; but it was a lot cheaper than a ZPO.

I just had a look and it is exactly the same design as the ZPO and very close price too lol,somebody needs to copyright the design.

On my Saxo I had the Satchshift for 1/3 of the price and that was well worth the money,that one replaced the whole assembly to the gearbox with rose joints though.

 

[RSRowe]

Well,on mine I can't quite select third gear at higher revs,seems like it needs to be adjusted so it sits a bit more to the left in neutral,I thought it was plug and play lol.

2-3, 4-5 and 5-4 are quite difficult in mine like. Takes me ages to shift as I take my hand off the shifter to make sure I don’t land in the wrong gate when centring.

I’ve driven my mates car which has a CAE shifter (which are considerably more) and it’s no different.

 

[burrellbloke]

We did have a problem with the ZPO not going in to 2nd very well but after some fiddling and adjustment it now works as it should to find every gear.

 

[Tarticmonkey]

Was the zpo a difficult to adjust? @burrellbloke

 

[EthanMenace]

Was the zpo a difficult to adjust? @burrellbloke

No, it’s just grub screws in the side of the shifter

 

[Marsch]

One of my Clio brothers has a CAE shifter in his track tool. I drove it once for a tour on some country roads. The higher knob position is obviously nice. So is the shorter throw. In the short time I was driving it I once couldn't get into third. I decided against getting one because it's not really usefull for driving on the road and the price is just theft no matter how good it's machined in my opinion.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

I got the lower arms ready to fit with powerflex bushes,decided to try the caster and camber adjustable ones:

I bought the Sealey socket recommended by others and ground it down quite a bit to fit the balljoint,I have no idea of the torque specified (does anyone know?),if i had to guess i reckon i tightended them to about 70-80nm,used a breaker bar and locitite.

I have also butchered the centre console to fit around the shifter,the ZPO improved the useability of the cup holders massively,I can now pull some serious g forces and coffee won't spill!

I have also butchered the bonnet to fit aerocathes,they will match the rears when i get a fiberglass boot:

Lastly fitted the Pure Motorsport 10mm rear spacer kit and -1 camber,it was good to get rid of the crusty old bolts.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Read from another forum member you can use Megane springs to keep the handbrake from sticking and these are not fitted to the Clio,i dont have that issue right now but with brand new calipers i figured i would try this out if it might help prevent it:

By the way,I can confirm these springs do absoultely nothing in my case,handbrake still drags a bit when driving off,so maybe I will have a look at the cables next.

 

[RSRowe]

Breaker bar and loctite should be fine btw.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Happy new year to all,only a quick update,I have fitted the new arms,there appears to be some camber now,not sure how much,I will have to buy a gauge and adjust them with the Powerflex key if needed:

Old ones are for sale if anybody is interested.

Also fitted the rear strut brace from SW Motorsport,wasn't a good experience to be honest,had to wait for a month (with no update from them) when it said in stock on the website and had to keep chasing them to get an estimate.

I have fitted the harnesses to them for the moment,I know it's not ideal but won't be doing any track time with them,just waiting to get an half cage soon.

Just waiting on RC5 pads to show up now to renew the front brakes.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Fitted some new front brakes as the ones before got warped pretty much the same day when I bought the car for some reason and made the steering wheel shake when braking,I went with Carbon Lorraine RC5+,I followed their bedding in procedure with 50 to 20 mph medium pressure 25 times and they are pretty incredible with stopping power,very impressed,they are pretty much on or off so need to be a bit more careful,the only disappointing thing is they dont squeal very much lol,if they wont I will have to try something else,I want noisy brakes lol.

CL pads work so good they triggered an ABS fault lol:

Got a gas strut for the bonnet,prefer it to the bonnet stay:

Got some standard terminals for the battery makes it easier to recharge and jump start if it goes flat:

Took advantage of the sunny weather (and cold) on Sunday and drove down to New Forest with a friend:

 

[Dowling93]

For the warping brake discs, I've been through that before with 2 sets of mtec and a set of godspeeds. They all warped on track after a good thrashing, switched to standard Brembo discs and I haven't had an issue since. I'm definitely going to stay away from any other brands in the future

 

[VeiRoNv2]

If they do warp again I'll definitely give them a go.

 

[Tarticmonkey]

Always ran Brembo High Carbon Discs on cars driven properly and never had issues.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Where can I buy these from please?

 

[Dowling93]

I'm in Ireland so I'm no good to you as I got them local but I know Kam racing or ktec do them

https://www.kamracing.co.uk/brembo-brake-discs-renault-clio-mk3-rs197-rs200.html

Brembo Clio 3RS | Megane 2RS High Carbon Front Brake Discs

Brembo High Carbon 312mm discs for the Megane 2RS 225, 230 R26 and R26.R, also all Clio 3RS models including the 197 / R27 / 200 and Gordini. Featuring a high carbon content steel for superb wear rates, these are an ideal performance brake disc to run with more aggressive race pad compounds such...

k-tecracing.com

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Went ahead and replaced the driver side top and bottom swivel joint in the nice 1 degree weather as they had a lot of play when moving the wheel side to side and have MOT coming up.
What a pain in the ass that was,pinch bolt was seized,had to drill the bolt all the way out,took 3 hours and a million drill bits but got there in the end,top joint nut was spinning for life so pretty much took a grinder to everything,in hindsight I should have welded a nut to the pinch bolt and tried that way first but have no electricity in the garage.

I used this China kit from ebay which worked well,not a "straight fit" so need to be a bit creative with sockets but it worked:

taking the bottom joint out:

I couldn't use that kit to press the new one in so I gently persuaded it in place with a big hammer:

The top joint nut was just spinning even with mole grips etc. so ran out of patience and cut it off:

The top joint has a flange around and I couldnt fit a receving cup on it that would sit level so the only way I found that would work was just to cut that bit off:

And removed it like this:

And installed the new one this way with the cup on the outer edge away from the boot:

But then i noticed that i couldnt just use the nut they supplied with the joint as it would sit inside a recess where the thread comes trough and thats not how the original nut and washer sit,so I had to just improvise and used washers to replicate the original fitment as i didnt have the correct single size,hoping it will be alright,will be looking if I can buy a new nut separetely:

Ready to go back in,I have also replaced the shock as it started leaking not long after I fitted the lowering springs,apparently it had 50k on it,it wouldn't extend anymore than this:

While I was there I replaced the horrible torx disc retaining bolts as I hate them with stainless hex ones,my goal is to replace every torx bolt in the car with hex ones.

Feels solid again,altough now I have found I have play in both inner track rod ends.

 

[Sean197]

I have a broken front coil spring and reading posts like this really reminds me just how much I can't be arsed doing it myself (I will though, eventually)...

 

[S24nrc]

Inner rod ends aren't too bad to do actually, I had one of the below bad boys and it took me about 20 minutes a side.

 

[VeiRoNv2]

Inner rod ends aren't too bad to do actually, I had one of the below bad boys and it took me about 20 minutes a side.
View attachment 156348

I saw these but I've read people having trouble with them so I'm a bit hesitant about buying these,I know the Clio joints are all smooth so there's no where to grip it easily