Is this bad? Bottom engine mount and subframe brace threads

[RSRowe]

Is that our cracked bracket? I envisioned it differently but that must be it…

Yep, that's it.
It's usually spot welded to a thin strip of metal

 

[Kalamat88]

Some updates. Got the broken bracket out and placed the new one in. I had to undue one part of the control arm to enable me to move my fingers in and get the old bracket out. I also jacked that unbolted part of the control arm a bit to get some more wiggle room. Before that, I hammered the exposed threads of the bracket from the bottom to unseat it and then got it out with my two fingers in that little spot circled.

First, here’s what I removed. The front subframe support for the radiator. You can see the bolt I removed from the control arm to have some more space to get the bracket out:




Threaded part faces front of the car.



I put the non threaded part in first (like backing in a car) and then pulled it back out towards me and seated it in the holes. You have enough room to work with it so if you lose lose your two finger grip on it, you can still recover it (so long as you don’t push it too far in).

 

[Frank Perry]

You could also use rivnuts, that's what I did on mine.

@VeiRoNv2 can you post which rivnuts you used? After looking at how much effort is required to replace these (thanks @Kalamat88 for the write up!), if rivnuts are easier/quicker, I'm all for it!

 

[VeiRoNv2]

US PRO LONG ARM THREADED NUT RIVETER M3-12 B5434 | eBay

Threaded nut riveter with long arms for easier use. US PRO Tools 110pc Threaded Nut Hand Riveter M3, M4, M5, M6, M8 5467. Draper Air Hydraulic Rivet Gun Pop Riveter Power Tool 16851. US PRO INDUSTRIAL Heavy Duty Lazy Tong Folding Riveter For Pop Rivets 5455.

www.ebay.co.uk

Ive used this with M10 rivnuts but probably should get a better tool as I struggled quite a bit to compress the M10 stainless rivnuts or maybe I should hit the gym.

 

[Kalamat88]

@Frank Perry glad I could help!