Hello.....

[Slint]

Hellloooo,

First post...go easy.
I had a 182 a few years back, picked up as an ex-demonstrator car with 700 miles on the clock, I sold it just under 100K. Never let me down......only issue was the rate I was replacing exhausts and the dreadful driving position......I never really got over selling it.

So....just picked up a 2010 RS3 in Storm Grey....The seating position is better, the pedals are still slightly too close together...but I’m enjoying it so far.......It has a few issues (it’s 10 years old...of course it has issues). I had set my sights on a Storm Grey or nothing......I’d been looking for 4-5 months and pickings were slim (in my price range). I‘m suffering (slightly) from the classic ‘buyers remorse’ as I was blinded by the car when I first set eyes on it....if I were looking for somebody else I probably wouldn’t have bought it...you know that feeling...right?

I have a few questions and mysteries to solve.....like:
1 - Why does the driver side wiper arm touch the bonnet in the resting position..? This cannot be normal...has the linkage been changed.?? Maybe....it might explain why the wiper only makes it to within 6 inch of the A pillar when wiping.
2 - The boot rattles....I may have sorted this one.
3 - Anti-roll bar links / clunking from passenger side - Best place to get quality anti-roll bar links / are the OEM ones OK?
4 - Are the Recaro CS seats worth buying? Are they really £1300 better than the standard seats...they look better for sure.
5 - Is it possible to remove the creep wash tank without removing the bumper?

There will defiantly be more questions....thank you for your patience.

Andrew

 

[Foxspeed]

welcome

 

[Beany]

Yes the recaros are well worth the money... personally £1300 is too much

 

[DS197]

Hellloooo,

First post...go easy.
I had a 182 a few years back, picked up as an ex-demonstrator car with 700 miles on the clock, I sold it just under 100K. Never let me down......only issue was the rate I was replacing exhausts and the dreadful driving position......I never really got over selling it.

So....just picked up a 2010 RS3 in Storm Grey....The seating position is better, the pedals are still slightly too close together...but I’m enjoying it so far.......It has a few issues (it’s 10 years old...of course it has issues). I had set my sights on a Storm Grey or nothing......I’d been looking for 4-5 months and pickings were slim (in my price range). I‘m suffering (slightly) from the classic ‘buyers remorse’ as I was blinded by the car when I first set eyes on it....if I were looking for somebody else I probably wouldn’t have bought it...you know that feeling...right?

I have a few questions and mysteries to solve.....like:
1 - Why does the driver side wiper arm touch the bonnet in the resting position..? This cannot be normal...has the linkage been changed.?? Maybe....it might explain why the wiper only makes it to within 6 inch of the A pillar when wiping.
2 - The boot rattles....I may have sorted this one.
3 - Anti-roll bar links / clunking from passenger side - Best place to get quality anti-roll bar links / are the OEM ones OK?
4 - Are the Recaro CS seats worth buying? Are they really £1300 better than the standard seats...they look better for sure.
5 - Is it possible to remove the creep wash tank without removing the bumper?

There will defiantly be more questions....thank you for your patience.

Andrew

1. They all do that and rub paint off the bonnet (as in when the arm is moved away from the windscreen)
2. Many suffer from this
3. OEM are fine, try Renault parts direct for a quote
4. Completely subjective. They look better than standard seats, and whilst the lower bolster is better on the Recaros compared to standard seats, the upper bolster is worse/less supportive.
5. Do you mean the windscreen washer fluid reservoir? It can be accessed through the wheel arch.

 

[Slint]

Thanks for the replies....much appreciated.
1 - Wiper arm - Really.??? This seems unfathomable. My bonnet has a sizeable chunk missing, fortunately not visible from the laymans viewpoint. The arm spigot appears to protrude at least 20mm too far out of the scuttle panel.
5 - Yes, sorry....poor typing / predictive text syndrome. Windscreen wash fluid reservoir. I suspect mine has a leak....what with all the rain we are having, it’s difficult to tell just how quick the screenwash it is escaping......but escaping it certainly is. Good to know I won’t have to remove the bumper to rectify.

 

[DS197]

Thanks for the replies....much appreciated.
1 - Wiper arm - Really.??? This seems unfathomable. My bonnet has a sizeable chunk missing, fortunately not visible from the laymans viewpoint. The arm spigot appears to protrude at least 20mm too far out of the scuttle panel.
5 - Yes, sorry....poor typing / predictive text syndrome. Windscreen wash fluid reservoir. I suspect mine has a leak....what with all the rain we are having, it’s difficult to tell just how quick the screenwash it is escaping......but escaping it certainly is. Good to know I won’t have to remove the bumper to rectify.

Yeah the wiper issue is a weird one. It could be because the wiper arm isn’t put back in exactly the same position when it’s removed (for cleaning the scuttle area). Could be sorted out in a few minutes if the wiper arms come off easily as a lot of the time they’re a pain.

 

[GarethM3]

Welcome [emoji16]

Once you get the problems sorted hopefully you won’t regret it. I’ve been lucky that I’ve only had an issue with the lower and upper ball joints on one side [emoji51].

Personally I chose a car with the standard seats because I didn’t like the recaros. Unless you are putting the car on the track the only advantages I can see are that they look cool and may help the resale


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Slint]

Welcome [emoji16]

Once you get the problems sorted hopefully you won’t regret it. I’ve been lucky that I’ve only had an issue with the lower and upper ball joints on one side [emoji51].

Personally I chose a car with the standard seats because I didn’t like the recaros. Unless you are putting the car on the track the only advantages I can see are that they look cool and may help the resale


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers.....I’m not really regretting it.....just the usual buyers remorse.....and, typically a day after I bought mine another 200 became available with lower miles, better condition, better spec etc...in our heads, without any proof, this car would have been trouble free and just....better.

The car went back to the garage yesterday (4th time in 3 weeks) in an attempt to find the source of the clunking. So far swivel joints, front spring and a steering arm has been replaced.....these made no difference to the noise issues. I’m convinced it’s the top mounts but my mechanic seems fairly sure they’re OK....I am tempted to just tell him to replace everything on the front end suspension related.......the search continues.

 

[GarethM3]

Cheers.....I’m not really regretting it.....just the usual buyers remorse.....and, typically a day after I bought mine another 200 became available with lower miles, better condition, better spec etc...in our heads, without any proof, this car would have been trouble free and just....better.

The car went back to the garage yesterday (4th time in 3 weeks) in an attempt to find the source of the clunking. So far swivel joints, front spring and a steering arm has been replaced.....these made no difference to the noise issues. I’m convinced it’s the top mounts but my mechanic seems fairly sure they’re OK....I am tempted to just tell him to replace everything on the front end suspension related.......the search continues.

Did you try the lower and bottom ball joints? Or do you mean the same by swivel joints? I’m no mechanic lol. I was getting a clunk/creak when I turned in opposite lock and the ball joints fixed it for me. Mine is a 2011 cup with 36k so I have all the problems ahead of me [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Slint]

Did you try the lower and bottom ball joints? Or do you mean the same by swivel joints? I’m no mechanic lol. I was getting a clunk/creak when I turned in opposite lock and the ball joints fixed it for me. Mine is a 2011 cup with 36k so I have all the problems ahead of me [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, not the bottom ball joint, it’s the ‘ball joint type’ part that is fitted to the top & bottom of the internal(?) hub.
I don’t get any creaking on steering....it’s only over uneven / potted roads (lots of those around here), this is why I’m convinced it’s either top mounts or anti-roll related.....I was initially surprised at my mechanics original diagnosis, theres no play / slackness in the steering, turns in perfectly, nothing unpredictable......just on uneven roads it sound like someone is underneath, hammering away at the floorpan.