Hi can anyone point me in the right direction for removing a exhaust manifold or is there a guide on here?
Exhaust manifold removal?????
- Thread starter sturmster
- Start date
I don't think there is an official one, more a quick list of what to remove.
i have changed mine and I could write a quick guide when I'm home.
i have changed mine and I could write a quick guide when I'm home.
I thought I had posted up the quick guide somewhere but can't find it now
Car up in the air
Undo ARB drop links
Remove/undo the track rod ends from the hubs
Undo bolts for lower torque mount (engine mount)
Take off the U shape brace under the car
Take off the big brace/subframe
Undo the steering UJ (in the footwell)
Unplug the lambda sensor
Remove the last bolts for the subframe which are hidden by the arch liners
Drop the subframe down
Remove nuts from manifold onto the engine
undo the clamp from the manifold to cat
Remove the manifold carefully (the starter motor is positioned below the flange so don't let it drop too much
Re-fitting is the reverse
Car up in the air
Undo ARB drop links
Remove/undo the track rod ends from the hubs
Undo bolts for lower torque mount (engine mount)
Take off the U shape brace under the car
Take off the big brace/subframe
Undo the steering UJ (in the footwell)
Unplug the lambda sensor
Remove the last bolts for the subframe which are hidden by the arch liners
Drop the subframe down
Remove nuts from manifold onto the engine
undo the clamp from the manifold to cat
Remove the manifold carefully (the starter motor is positioned below the flange so don't let it drop too much
Re-fitting is the reverse
Have changed manifold was easyer then fort but now manifold is knocking on sub frame had just replaced dog bone mount as that was ****ed still doing it any help guys????
Chris
Bad cop
It knocks on the subframe, people either grind or bend the lip of the subframe.
See my posts in this thread, notably 14
http://www.clio197.net/forum/showthread.php?50039-toyosport-manifold-powerflex-engine-mounts/page2
assuning you've put a toyo manifold on and not another oem manifold
See my posts in this thread, notably 14
http://www.clio197.net/forum/showthread.php?50039-toyosport-manifold-powerflex-engine-mounts/page2
assuning you've put a toyo manifold on and not another oem manifold
After 3 days with the 200 on axle stands, the manifold and new engine mount inserts was finally completed! Took me so long due to also having to work night shifts!
Anyway!-what a ball ache. Tough job, but pleased I done it myself on my driveway.
Managed to get a second hand manifold that was for sale on here, although the flexis were good, I did notice it was cracked on one on of the ports so off to my welder mate for a quick repair. It's a de-cat one too so will wait a few weeks to notice any confirmed differences!
only issue is now me emissions light is on!! Does this turn off once it's been run in for a while?
Also fitted the lower engine mount and dog bone upper mount from power flex so got a lot of vibration on idle atm-hopefully that will settle down too!
Anyway!-what a ball ache. Tough job, but pleased I done it myself on my driveway.
Managed to get a second hand manifold that was for sale on here, although the flexis were good, I did notice it was cracked on one on of the ports so off to my welder mate for a quick repair. It's a de-cat one too so will wait a few weeks to notice any confirmed differences!
only issue is now me emissions light is on!! Does this turn off once it's been run in for a while?
Also fitted the lower engine mount and dog bone upper mount from power flex so got a lot of vibration on idle atm-hopefully that will settle down too!
So I've also learnt the hard way- DO NOT disconnect the steering under the pedals. Turns out my SQUIB spring is snapped due to the steering column being turned whilst disconnected. £150 replacement part + fitting!! Fuming.
The upper and lower torque link inserts sorted the knock out for me, no need to do any bending, heating or grinding.
Did you reconnect the lambda sensor? Do you have a the main cat still in place?
So I attempted this this afternoon over the space of about 3 hours with no success. I have a few questions though.
I removed the bolt from the universal joint however when trying to lower the subframe it wouldn't release, it was as if it was still connected to it ?
How on earth do you unbolt the manifold? To you have to reach behind the engine over the top? Why the hell do you need baby arms and fingers to do anything with these cars?!
I have a 2012 build 200, I'm not sure if this changes anything. I've also read through the removal quite a few times in the service manual too, but nothing really seems to explain the questions I have above.
Help would be appreciated guys. It's really frustrating and I'd rather do it myself than get charged all the labour for getting it done by a mechanic!
Travis.
I removed the bolt from the universal joint however when trying to lower the subframe it wouldn't release, it was as if it was still connected to it ?
How on earth do you unbolt the manifold? To you have to reach behind the engine over the top? Why the hell do you need baby arms and fingers to do anything with these cars?!
I have a 2012 build 200, I'm not sure if this changes anything. I've also read through the removal quite a few times in the service manual too, but nothing really seems to explain the questions I have above.
Help would be appreciated guys. It's really frustrating and I'd rather do it myself than get charged all the labour for getting it done by a mechanic!
Travis.
Done this the other weekend as one of the flexi's was blown. Felt like sharing my experience and give few advices (may be some controversy tho).
To start with, you are WAY better off using a ramp/lift. I wouldn't even attempt it to do on a driveway/jack stands - you'll hate everything as there will little to no space to move.
BEFORE the day when undoing the manifold - soak up all the manifold nuts (you can reach them from the top, just open the bonnet and use a light, you'll see them *******s) with WD40/any other penetrant liquid. Might help (might not, but better safe than sorry).
Prior to starting the job, make sure:
1) to order your new exhaust manifold gasket (local Renault charged me 7 quid with next day delivery).
2) get decent tools, small and big ratchets, deep and shallow socket's. Might to with some ratchet spanners too.
3) start early in the morning - in case something goes wrong leaves you enough time to get help/etc.
Then it's pretty much as per antnee's advice:
Personal experiences:
1) make sure you disconnect your battery before starting; keep wheels straight (just a general advice with everything)
2) it's great to have someone around when needed to push/pull/hold/watch/etc things
3) I did not undo the track rod ends; instead unbolted steering rack from the subframe and disconnected UJ from steering column, and left the whole thing hanging
4) some say you don't have to disconnect the the UJ - I tried and couldn't get enough clearance without disconnecting. Trust me it's a waste of time and excess stress, just disconnect the UJ
5) if you do decide to disconnect UJ, make sure NOT TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL after doing so. High chance of damaging the squib which will set you back another 50+ quid and 1h of work (experienced this in the past)
6) once everything unbolted from the bottom and hanging loose, I had to take the wipers/wiper cover etc off - easy job, you'll see the bolts. Make sure you clean your drainage holes besides top mounts (mines were blocked). You'll need a thick-ish wire and some water. Pour some water to see if it's floating through, if not - wire in and give it a wiggle until water comes form the bottom back of the wheel arches
7) the manifold nuts will most likely be tight AF. Also they're small (10mm), easy to break, etc. Be very careful, make sure your sockets/spanners sit perfectly square and procceed to undo. I snapped the very nut/stud, so that on had to be replaced.
8) once they're off, get car up high again, get someone to give a hand and wiggle the manifold out.
Had mine repaired and put back in the same day. Assembly was easier as I knew what's going on etc. Don't forget your gasket and gasket prep area - give it a good wipe/clean so it's nice and smooth. Check the gasket prep on manifold - should be nice and clean. Do manifold nuts evenly starting from the middle working your way round. Double check they're all tight.
Also when putting all your suspension components back - double/triple check everything is nice and tight and no spare bolts left around.
When bolting subframe back on - watch out for the lambda wires as well as Xenon light adjuster wires - they apparently can get trapped.
Overall it's not an easy job, but no rocket science. Took me about 8 of my own hours over the course of two days plus about an hour help from my mate as I like to keep it steady and was doing full service as well. Assuming all bolts would've gone off easy and I didn't snap the first stud, I reckon you can get it off in about 2hrs and put back even quicker than that.
Reason I opted to do it myself is I was quoted around 120-160 quid for removal/install and around 40-50 quid for welding repair. Couldn't escape the welding expenses, but my mate only charged me 50 quid to use his garage, and I did a full service (oil/filters/spark plugs) whilst doing the manifold, which he normally charges me 40 quid for.
Hope this helps someone. Happy to answer any questions.
Keep it real yo
To start with, you are WAY better off using a ramp/lift. I wouldn't even attempt it to do on a driveway/jack stands - you'll hate everything as there will little to no space to move.
BEFORE the day when undoing the manifold - soak up all the manifold nuts (you can reach them from the top, just open the bonnet and use a light, you'll see them *******s) with WD40/any other penetrant liquid. Might help (might not, but better safe than sorry).
Prior to starting the job, make sure:
1) to order your new exhaust manifold gasket (local Renault charged me 7 quid with next day delivery).
2) get decent tools, small and big ratchets, deep and shallow socket's. Might to with some ratchet spanners too.
3) start early in the morning - in case something goes wrong leaves you enough time to get help/etc.
Then it's pretty much as per antnee's advice:
Personal experiences:
1) make sure you disconnect your battery before starting; keep wheels straight (just a general advice with everything)
2) it's great to have someone around when needed to push/pull/hold/watch/etc things
3) I did not undo the track rod ends; instead unbolted steering rack from the subframe and disconnected UJ from steering column, and left the whole thing hanging
4) some say you don't have to disconnect the the UJ - I tried and couldn't get enough clearance without disconnecting. Trust me it's a waste of time and excess stress, just disconnect the UJ
5) if you do decide to disconnect UJ, make sure NOT TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL after doing so. High chance of damaging the squib which will set you back another 50+ quid and 1h of work (experienced this in the past)
6) once everything unbolted from the bottom and hanging loose, I had to take the wipers/wiper cover etc off - easy job, you'll see the bolts. Make sure you clean your drainage holes besides top mounts (mines were blocked). You'll need a thick-ish wire and some water. Pour some water to see if it's floating through, if not - wire in and give it a wiggle until water comes form the bottom back of the wheel arches
7) the manifold nuts will most likely be tight AF. Also they're small (10mm), easy to break, etc. Be very careful, make sure your sockets/spanners sit perfectly square and procceed to undo. I snapped the very nut/stud, so that on had to be replaced.
8) once they're off, get car up high again, get someone to give a hand and wiggle the manifold out.
Had mine repaired and put back in the same day. Assembly was easier as I knew what's going on etc. Don't forget your gasket and gasket prep area - give it a good wipe/clean so it's nice and smooth. Check the gasket prep on manifold - should be nice and clean. Do manifold nuts evenly starting from the middle working your way round. Double check they're all tight.
Also when putting all your suspension components back - double/triple check everything is nice and tight and no spare bolts left around.
When bolting subframe back on - watch out for the lambda wires as well as Xenon light adjuster wires - they apparently can get trapped.
Overall it's not an easy job, but no rocket science. Took me about 8 of my own hours over the course of two days plus about an hour help from my mate as I like to keep it steady and was doing full service as well. Assuming all bolts would've gone off easy and I didn't snap the first stud, I reckon you can get it off in about 2hrs and put back even quicker than that.
Reason I opted to do it myself is I was quoted around 120-160 quid for removal/install and around 40-50 quid for welding repair. Couldn't escape the welding expenses, but my mate only charged me 50 quid to use his garage, and I did a full service (oil/filters/spark plugs) whilst doing the manifold, which he normally charges me 40 quid for.
Hope this helps someone. Happy to answer any questions.
Keep it real yo
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I'm half way through this so thought I'd chuck my 2 pence in, cheers to @antnee as his guide is pretty much spot on. Coming off mototorway last night she decided to turn into a 2-stroke, ffs! That's flexis gone I thought, 13yrs/88k on an original manifold ain't bad I guess... Garage wanted 5 hours labour + manifold so being a cheap skate I thought I'd give it a bash...
1.) You can do it on axle stands but you need to get the car at least a foot of the ground to have enough room:
2.) Arch liners out, pig of a job but they need to go, I took the underside engine cover off at same time.
3.) I undid the arb drop link from the strut as it's easiest to get at, you'll need some decent ball joint splitters for the track rod ends.
4.) Slacken the dog bone engine mount, you only need to remove the one bolt (22mm iirc) and slide it out the way:
5.) Lock the steering wheel and remove the U/J bolt, you can prise the nut/cover out with a big screwdriver. Then pivot the U/J out and wedge it against the carpet:

6.) Remove the U shaped bracket on the back of the subframe (be aware subframe will drop).
7.) Remove the big square bracket underneath the subframe (not 100% convinced this step is required but it does give better access getting the manifold out).
9.) Make sure door/boot etc. are open/unlocked before removing the battery or you won't be able to get inside...
10.) I undid the manifold nuts next, using a deep drive 10mm socket and 3/8 breaker bar they came off like piss (I left one bolt in till I was ready to take it off). To get better access I removed the air intake pipe and some wiring that runs along the top of the engine:
11.) Unclip the wiring to the subframe, that's both lambda sensors (passenger wheel arch & underneath), unclip the wiring under the car and pull it back or it'll get stretched! There's also two connectors on the headlight level sensor (xenon only), one you can get at from above the other below... Don't pull on the wires is my advice.
12.) While your under the car slacken the clip between the two cats and split the manifold from the exhaust.
13.) Trolley jack underneath the subframe and remove the two remaining subframe bolts, lower it right down the further the better as you'll only struggle getting manifold out...
14.) Here's one I made earlier...
So was it blown flexis? Nope! Welds cracked on cylinders 2 & 3, same flexi shows signs of wear but the bellows haven't split yet...
I tried to get a deal from Toyosport for the full manifold and exhaust system but customer service was sh*t, £5 discount for both and then I found on eBay they were selling manifold for £5.01 less under the guise gpx motorsport
Needless to say I've f*cked the exhaust off...
For info here's official guide and pictures from Dialogys, it's along same lines as above.
In all honesty this is easier than doing ball joints etc. Took me about 3 hrs to get it all apart, only thing left to do is get lambda sensors out but I ordered a special tool for the job.
1.) You can do it on axle stands but you need to get the car at least a foot of the ground to have enough room:
2.) Arch liners out, pig of a job but they need to go, I took the underside engine cover off at same time.
3.) I undid the arb drop link from the strut as it's easiest to get at, you'll need some decent ball joint splitters for the track rod ends.
4.) Slacken the dog bone engine mount, you only need to remove the one bolt (22mm iirc) and slide it out the way:
5.) Lock the steering wheel and remove the U/J bolt, you can prise the nut/cover out with a big screwdriver. Then pivot the U/J out and wedge it against the carpet:

6.) Remove the U shaped bracket on the back of the subframe (be aware subframe will drop).
7.) Remove the big square bracket underneath the subframe (not 100% convinced this step is required but it does give better access getting the manifold out).
9.) Make sure door/boot etc. are open/unlocked before removing the battery or you won't be able to get inside...
10.) I undid the manifold nuts next, using a deep drive 10mm socket and 3/8 breaker bar they came off like piss (I left one bolt in till I was ready to take it off). To get better access I removed the air intake pipe and some wiring that runs along the top of the engine:
11.) Unclip the wiring to the subframe, that's both lambda sensors (passenger wheel arch & underneath), unclip the wiring under the car and pull it back or it'll get stretched! There's also two connectors on the headlight level sensor (xenon only), one you can get at from above the other below... Don't pull on the wires is my advice.
12.) While your under the car slacken the clip between the two cats and split the manifold from the exhaust.
13.) Trolley jack underneath the subframe and remove the two remaining subframe bolts, lower it right down the further the better as you'll only struggle getting manifold out...
14.) Here's one I made earlier...
So was it blown flexis? Nope! Welds cracked on cylinders 2 & 3, same flexi shows signs of wear but the bellows haven't split yet...
I tried to get a deal from Toyosport for the full manifold and exhaust system but customer service was sh*t, £5 discount for both and then I found on eBay they were selling manifold for £5.01 less under the guise gpx motorsport
Needless to say I've f*cked the exhaust off...
For info here's official guide and pictures from Dialogys, it's along same lines as above.
In all honesty this is easier than doing ball joints etc. Took me about 3 hrs to get it all apart, only thing left to do is get lambda sensors out but I ordered a special tool for the job.
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Managed to finish this off today, the manifold turned up earlier this week but it took a few days to get back on it...
Used one of these to get lambda sensor out, not bad but the slot is a little small and it could do with being a bit longer...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01L6YYVT4/
Needed some leverage and heat but it came out ok, sensor still works too which is a bonus!
I'm terms of refitting it's basically a reversal of above, lambda sensor into new manifold, fit manifold & gasket etc.
Things to note...
* Heat shield on the starter motor needs to go back on first, if you've reconnected the battery make sure you take it off or there's going to be sparks...
* Once manifolds on torque up clockwise from center, 30Nm rings a bell. I've reused the clamp on the cat and it seems to be ok.
* Subframe can go back on next, don't forget about the wiring for the lambda and xenon sensors etc.
* You'll need to put the big u-shaped brace back on for the subframe, refit the dog bone engine mount while your under there.
* Reconnect the U/J before the track rods or the rack will move. The U/J nut is a bit odd, it's flat on one side so it slides up the cap then spins on the eccentric nut to nip onto the shaft...
In hindsight the brass nut should push back into the cap to release the U/J, because I forced it out I broke the cap off...
* About now I'd crank her over and make sure everything ok, last thing you wanna do is box her up and find lambda sensors fooked etc.
* Refit the track rod ends, the tie rods, the big brace under the subframe, the arch liners, the wheels etc. Job done!
I dunno if Toyo has tweaked the manifold but I've got a good fingers width to the subframe, I'm running stock engine mounts (albeit fairly new), powerflex on the torque arm and there's no knocking, woohoo!
Sounds a little better too without the precat, more of a worble above 4k
Anyhow here's some torque figures, someone should really sticky this in how to section
Used one of these to get lambda sensor out, not bad but the slot is a little small and it could do with being a bit longer...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01L6YYVT4/
Needed some leverage and heat but it came out ok, sensor still works too which is a bonus!
I'm terms of refitting it's basically a reversal of above, lambda sensor into new manifold, fit manifold & gasket etc.
Things to note...
* Heat shield on the starter motor needs to go back on first, if you've reconnected the battery make sure you take it off or there's going to be sparks...
* Once manifolds on torque up clockwise from center, 30Nm rings a bell. I've reused the clamp on the cat and it seems to be ok.
* Subframe can go back on next, don't forget about the wiring for the lambda and xenon sensors etc.
* You'll need to put the big u-shaped brace back on for the subframe, refit the dog bone engine mount while your under there.
* Reconnect the U/J before the track rods or the rack will move. The U/J nut is a bit odd, it's flat on one side so it slides up the cap then spins on the eccentric nut to nip onto the shaft...
In hindsight the brass nut should push back into the cap to release the U/J, because I forced it out I broke the cap off...
* About now I'd crank her over and make sure everything ok, last thing you wanna do is box her up and find lambda sensors fooked etc.
* Refit the track rod ends, the tie rods, the big brace under the subframe, the arch liners, the wheels etc. Job done!
I dunno if Toyo has tweaked the manifold but I've got a good fingers width to the subframe, I'm running stock engine mounts (albeit fairly new), powerflex on the torque arm and there's no knocking, woohoo!
Sounds a little better too without the precat, more of a worble above 4k
Anyhow here's some torque figures, someone should really sticky this in how to section
Last edited:
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