Camber tops

[PITA]

Is it safe to run my camber adjustable tops with the bolts close together like this? If not, I won’t be able to adjust it to max camber on the car

 

[Beany]

How come you can’t adjust them once they’re fitted ?

 

[RSRowe]

Would be better drilling through the spacer like my friend has done.



how much camber are you wanting? You can get to 2.5 without having to change anything.

 

[PITA]

How come you can’t adjust them once they’re fitted ?

The bolts will be inaccessible unless I position them like that. It’s a newer 200 with the smaller hole in the top mounts. I’m opening them up to 89mm but even then I won’t have the full range available.

 

[Beany]

That’s how mines set up and no issues..

Running about -3 DEGS of camber

 

[PITA]

That’s how mines set up and no issues..

Running about -3 DEGS of camber
View attachment 141811

How did you set that? One of them looks out of view

 

[Beany]

If I’m honest it’s how it was set up by Matt at Supreme Motorsport

@R27WTF

Sorry if I’m not much help

 

[suj]

How did you set that? One of them looks out of view

You only have 1 on each side just to adjust, once you have set the camber you lower top mount and put the other one back in, then you just double check it hasn't moved.

Also I thought you had it setup? If so you shouldn't be adjusting it after setup, as it will change toe also.

 

[PITA]

You only have 1 on each side just to adjust, once you have set the camber you lower top mount and put the other one back in, then you just double check it hasn't moved.

Also I thought you had it setup? If so you shouldn't be adjusting it after setup, as it will change toe also.

I’ve not fitted them yet, I’m having a stab myself then I’ll get the geo setup.

I need to open up the strut top so I can adjust them and I’m trying to work out the best way/size to go. I was thinking of an 89mm hole offset from the centre. This should allow camber adjustment in situ as long as the castor isn’t too drastic. With the top being castor adjustable via the 3 mounting bolts; dropping it to adjust the camber would mess with the castor setting too.

I’m now leaning towards an 89mm square instead of the circle but I don’t want to remove too much. I’ll have a section welded in for strength like this.

 

[PITA]

88.9mm hole but I can offset it towards the engine so that I can get to the adjustment

 

[suj]

You're most likely going to go for full caster (it's not like it has loads of caster adjustment on the top mounts) so that is easy to just push all the way across.
It's how I had it on my E36 track car, I didn't enlarge the holes as once your camber is set, you will not be touching it (as like I said if you change camber you will need to check toe anyways).

I've seen some people just cut a square/rectangle out of the strut tops so that they can then adjust camber, I wouldn't personally and I don't know how strong it would be, but if you are going to get it reinforced anyway might work.

 

[petercronin]

I would stick to a round hole personally, even if it has to be bigger. Corners make stress risers and can allow cracks to start easier than circles.

Mine have been enlarged for a few years now and haven’t needed any strengthening.

 

[PITA]

I went for the 3” (88.9mm) circular hole in the end. The 3 holes are slotted and with the castor adjustment there’s enough wiggle room to set it to what I’ll need (hopefully).