Thought I would post up a little review on my experiences with fitting my 64mm ported throttle body that I got courtesy of willis.
Engine mods to date:
*Ktec pro performance 100 cell sports cat, cat back exhaust
*Pipercross panel filter
*Silicon hoses
*Jamsport matched inlets
*Deboxed front grill, with opened mouthed grill
*Vacuum hose to second outlet disconnected and plugged to keep the flap open and cold air feed fitted to bottom grill
*RS Tuning Remap courtesy of TDF
*Sprint Booster gen 2 (not been used so far with new throttle body)
*Of course the new 64mm ported throttle body
Well first of, I disconnected the battery and left the ecu to discharge for half an hour, hoping it would encourage the ecu to learn that little bit quicker once the new throttle body is fitted.
Fitted the new throttle body, double checked everything was fitted right, and reconnected the battery.
Started the car up, car revved upto 3000rpm and stayed there, touched the throttle, car revved and dropped but then started to creep upto 4000rpm (started to panic abit)
Turned off and back on, now back at 3000rpm, left to tick over for 10mins while I locked the house up and had a ciggy.
Drove no less than a mile to get some ciggys, car off , then back on to drive back home, car still idling at 3000 rpm.
Left the car on the drive for a few hours.
Later on went out, did a few miles then car was off for a n hour or two, then a few miles again back home, car still idling at 3000rpm.
Next day went out for some shopping, only down the road, turned the car on, now idling at 2000rpm, returned home turned car off, and left on drive for a few hours.
Fancied a ciggy and as it was raining, went and sat in the car, while I was there I thought I may aswel let the car idle for a bit, turned the car over and then the car started to idle a touch below 1500rpm, which on cold start isn’t too bad.
Later went out and car drove fine, idling fluctuating between a touch over 1000rpm to touch under 1500rpm.
So my opinion of the ecu learning is to do:
*let it tick over for ten minute
*steady driving (do a few miles)
*cold start driving
*warm start driving
* turning the car on and off is the key rather than distance travelled.
Now on the performance side.
The car feels a lot more urgent bottom of the rev range, this with the power already at the top of the rev range to makes the car feel rapid (sorry not a technical term I know) but over £75 well spent? Probably the best £75 I spent.
Not used it yet with the sprint booster as I want to get a few more miles/stop/start driving to make sure the throttle body as fully adapted. But without the sprint booster the car does seem to pull a lot harder. Even thou the exhaust doesn’t seem louder, it pops/bangs louder as if theres more power behind the pop/bangs.
Overall quite happy. (Sorry for the long review, thought this might help other people. Other comment welcome)
Thanks for reading
UPDATE
Tried the sprint booster last light even thou it was quite wet, what can i say, i put my foot down and the car very easily lit its wheels up, the car was an animal, pulls even harder.
Engine mods to date:
*Ktec pro performance 100 cell sports cat, cat back exhaust
*Pipercross panel filter
*Silicon hoses
*Jamsport matched inlets
*Deboxed front grill, with opened mouthed grill
*Vacuum hose to second outlet disconnected and plugged to keep the flap open and cold air feed fitted to bottom grill
*RS Tuning Remap courtesy of TDF
*Sprint Booster gen 2 (not been used so far with new throttle body)
*Of course the new 64mm ported throttle body
Well first of, I disconnected the battery and left the ecu to discharge for half an hour, hoping it would encourage the ecu to learn that little bit quicker once the new throttle body is fitted.
Fitted the new throttle body, double checked everything was fitted right, and reconnected the battery.
Started the car up, car revved upto 3000rpm and stayed there, touched the throttle, car revved and dropped but then started to creep upto 4000rpm (started to panic abit)
Turned off and back on, now back at 3000rpm, left to tick over for 10mins while I locked the house up and had a ciggy.
Drove no less than a mile to get some ciggys, car off , then back on to drive back home, car still idling at 3000 rpm.
Left the car on the drive for a few hours.
Later on went out, did a few miles then car was off for a n hour or two, then a few miles again back home, car still idling at 3000rpm.
Next day went out for some shopping, only down the road, turned the car on, now idling at 2000rpm, returned home turned car off, and left on drive for a few hours.
Fancied a ciggy and as it was raining, went and sat in the car, while I was there I thought I may aswel let the car idle for a bit, turned the car over and then the car started to idle a touch below 1500rpm, which on cold start isn’t too bad.
Later went out and car drove fine, idling fluctuating between a touch over 1000rpm to touch under 1500rpm.
So my opinion of the ecu learning is to do:
*let it tick over for ten minute
*steady driving (do a few miles)
*cold start driving
*warm start driving
* turning the car on and off is the key rather than distance travelled.
Now on the performance side.
The car feels a lot more urgent bottom of the rev range, this with the power already at the top of the rev range to makes the car feel rapid (sorry not a technical term I know) but over £75 well spent? Probably the best £75 I spent.
Not used it yet with the sprint booster as I want to get a few more miles/stop/start driving to make sure the throttle body as fully adapted. But without the sprint booster the car does seem to pull a lot harder. Even thou the exhaust doesn’t seem louder, it pops/bangs louder as if theres more power behind the pop/bangs.
Overall quite happy. (Sorry for the long review, thought this might help other people. Other comment welcome)
Thanks for reading
UPDATE
Tried the sprint booster last light even thou it was quite wet, what can i say, i put my foot down and the car very easily lit its wheels up, the car was an animal, pulls even harder.
Last edited:
