197 R27 rod caps failure (30k miles) - confirmed

[rSilva]

@rSilva yep I've got a set of 200 rods for sale. http://www.clio197.net/forum/showthread.php?50014-200-Rods

I can't see the post. I need to be a paying member for that?

 

[TB Rich]

I can't see the post. I need to be a paying member for that?

Perhaps? I have them listed here also, http://www.cliorsr.uk/?page_id=331

 

[rSilva]

96000kmView attachment 13044View attachment 13045[emoji35]

What caused that? Oil pump failure?

 

[chorlica]

hello, I do not know exactly the oil pump is in good condition, you step going 120km / h on the highway, reading the Internet I saw that this break is quite common in our cars
many people say that is because the oil pump and others is that the caps do not move to bring key. sorry for my english (Google traslator)

 

[rSilva]

A few more pics of the crank, that is now out and waiting for the trip to the machine shop.

Also, when taking the engine apart I noticed that the crank and flywheel have no locating pin.
Can someone point me the right position to assemble it back?

 

[Foxspeed]

seems to have run quite dry there as its wiped the bearing material off the shells....

are you replacing the con rods that have had the bearings spin on them?

 

[rSilva]

I'm going to take the rod that has the spun bearing to the machine shop to see if they can regrind it back into shape. If not then I'll have to replace it.

The shells where the source of the problem, as the worn one spun and made the rod starve.

...
Also, when taking the engine apart I noticed that the crank and flywheel have no locating pin.
Can someone point me the right position to assemble it back?

Who can share some light on this?

 

[rSilva]

Crank is now at the machine shop for regrind.
The rod, despite being salvageable I was recommended to replace due to having sustaines... that means buying the set that TB Rich has for sale.. Thanks mate

Also, a pic of the intake ports... Didn't knew they were CNC'd from factory

 

[Foxspeed]

for me the f4r rods are spindly looking things and from a personal point of view don't look that robust for sustained 7000rpm :thumbdown:

it would be the minimum but change of rod is 100% for this engine

 

[rSilva]

Well... bad news... it's seems that the crank isn't in the best of shapes...

Where do people from here source complete engines? And crankshafts?
I've looked a bit online and couldn't find any relevant result either on complete engines or cranks

 

[bebbetufs]

Sorry to hear about your engine.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/TOP-Renault-...547951?hash=item3d05288a2f:g:2HEAAOxyzqdTdNyf

http://www.ebay.de/itm/TOP-Motor-Re...876876?hash=item3d0b9d820c:g:vg8AAOSwNphWa~Ai

 

[rSilva]

Thanks for the links mate!

I should be able to get along without replacing the engine.
The machine shop says that the crank is salvageable and I've bought a set of OEM rods from Rich to replace the busted one.

+0,25mm oversize main and rod bearings have already been bought and I'm currently waiting for the crank to be grind to on the mains a and rod ends so that I can start assembling it back.

If someone with similar problems gets in the need for some used OEM rods I will have 3 to spare, so tell me if I can be of any help.

 

[rSilva]

Can ayone share the tightening sequences for the engine on OEM components?
* Rods
* Crank
* Head

Thanks!

 

[TB Rich]

[MENTION=53528]rSilva[/MENTION]

Head (I believe the cam cover is the same pattern too - I know they are 12N.m for sure):



Crank:


Rods (no pattern):

 

[TB Rich]

edited for correct image!!

here is the rocker cover for an F4R...12N.m is correct:

 

[rSilva]

The rocker cover I had from the clio guide and was sure it was OK.

For the crank, rods and head I only had that same guide that you had shared and was unsure, because I didn't knew if the crank bolts would be the same due to mentioning ARP
"Put in place the crankshaft bearings’ ARP bolts (Ref : 77 11 162 991)."

Will use that info then.
Thanks Rich

 

[TB Rich]

I'll check the oem docs..........hadn't realised I sent the RS doc to you!

 

[TB Rich]

Doesn't cover the crank/bottom end from what I can find - I would guess Renault replace the whole bottom end as it's cheaper than rebuilding it.

 

[rSilva]

And it lives! :lol:

Couple weeks ago had the first start and went for quick trip to the car wash to take all the dust out.
Collecting some miles on soft driving before an oil and filter change so that normal usage can then be resumed.
[video]https://youtu.be/vt-A6e7lf9c[/video]

Only fault is that it after driving some time shows the battery charge fault. Battery will be changed anyway and both the ODB diagnostic and measuring at the battery will show some healthy 14V.