197 Front Damper Hub Bolt - No Nut *Rolls eyes*

Hi all,

Bought what I thought was a clean 197 in December, had the Cambelt done at Renault Bristol, where they did a health check and did not seem to catch this...

Whilst doing a full service myself (Oils, filter, spark plugs and Thermostat), I noticed when taking the passenger front wheel off, that the following bolt was missing its Nut.:
(Back of the Hub, that looks like it pinches the strut?)

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IMG20211231142206.jpg

I tried to place a M12 x 1.25 nut on the bolt, but soon found the reason it is missing, is because the threads are shot!

So I started to try and remove the bolt itself, which does turn, with a huge breaker bar, but it is TIGHT and does not want to punch out (Which is probably what the previous owner did, trying to remove the bolt, which ruined the threads).

This does seem solid, but I have OCD and obviously want to correct it.

My question is, would this concern you?

Does the bolt 'pinch' the hub around the strut/damper, or does it go through a 'tab' on the strut/damper, which would stop this "flying out".

Im telling myself that Gravity would stop this happening and in the pics, the car is jacked up, so the hub is at its lowest and does not seem to let the strut/damper out.

Anyone got advice on how to remove the bolt, so i can insert a new bolt with nut?

Thanks for the help :smile:
 
You need to get it out and replace it.

No other way really other than smashing it out with a hammer.
 
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Gun on the bolt end and hammer on threaded part to get it out, they can be a pain.
 
Thanks guys. I did try hitting it with a hammer and it really did not want to go.

Do you think, jacking up the hub, whilst car is in air, then getting plumbers blowtorch on the hub to heat it up will be what I need to do?

Got a bolt and nut ready to replace it. Just need to actually get it out :sweatsmile:
 
It could alleviate some of the force acting down the hub / strut, so worth a go, but I did my method above and after some hammer time on the thread, it come out. A good flat head punch helps too.
 
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It could elevate some of the force acting down the hub / strut, so worth a go, but I did my method above and after some hammer time on the thread, it come out. A good flat head punch helps too.

Thank you, I really appreciate the advice.

I will go and have a crack at it.


:thumb:
 
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Putting a lot of heat in that tight area you might find you will melt/damage something else your best bet will be although a pain in the ass, take the full assembly out so you can get at it. Check the shock has not twisted and pinched the blot as well. As for hitting it again you can’t get much of a swing so another reason for off. Do a full few hours of socking with WD40 across the bolt put a nut on the end flush so you have a bigger area to hit and when you hit the end you’re not damaging the threads but I would say that’s too late now. You will need the correct (original) replacement bolt before you start anyway worst case with removal you can get at the back and with a hacksaw blade cut the bolt similar to a stuck slide pin on the callipers as it might now be bent if you keep hitting it the lugs on the hub might break off. You need a MAP gas torch to get enough heat into the area for some time as the aluminium conducts the heat away if you have a good quality 6 face socket try turning the bolt from the head side it might use the finger on the shock to break what’s binding it the holes on the hub are not threaded and the bolt if it turns is a good sign. With the weight on the front wheels check the strut top has not split it’s a good time with good tools to free all hard to get at bolts to make future work easier and you can clean the scuttle bay for blocked drains at the same time and take the opportunity to replace other items the assembly is heavy and two people and an extra jack is an advantage.

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