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So on that logic, it would seem that Alex at AW is right. If the spring is applied to help release the handbrake because corrosion somewhere prevents it releasing, it’s not unreasonable to assume the spring then works against the handbrake when applying on that side, especially if the cable pull...

I bolted Sparco subframes into mine then bolted the Sabelt seat mounts straight to them. From memory I had to drill an additional hole to bring the seat forward enough for me.

Actually I’m afraid it can. My rear calipers were starting to occasionally jam the handbrake so I bought some springs. Fitted one, went to the other side of the car to do the other and just happened to look back over to see the caliper dripping brake fluid. It had blown a seal by the strength on...

Update. If you remove the front seats and drop the steering wheel off, it goes in through the drivers door pretty easy. Just the mounting holes to drill and it's job done.

Most manufacturers design their systems to live for ten years/150k miles. Engines are no different. Performance is normally certified by Authorities of being able to make the claimed power for a given fuel. Once that is declared, you are then allowed a +/- 5% called COP (Conformity Of...

Oh yes, and you need to be accurate on your redline and shift points

Firstly we need to know what box you’re running and what your tyre sizes are but there are plenty of gear speed calculators out there. I used an old Subaru one for mine, which gave me all I needed. I changed FDU to 4.73, changed 1-3 ratios and ran different size tyres and it’s bang on...

I’ve bought the JP bolt in cage because I can’t remove the interior according to my competition regs. It will be going in during the next week or so. as for harness, I run Sabelt six points and they’re superb.

Ok, well mine has been doing it since I had the box done March ‘21. I’ve put it down to less inertia causing the gears to chatter a bit more and stopped worrying about it.

Have you got a lighter flywheel? I had my box rebuilt with different ratios, short FD, Blackline and Lighter flywheel. It sounds like a quiet version of a straight cut box now, especially on overrun.

I forgot to update on this. Turned out to be fixable with shims so all good again. I was amazed to get away so lightly

I’m expecting beam tbh. Could have been way worse.

Yes, we’re obliged to run full trim. I might pull it out the rear to see if there’s anything but it does just look like the camber is out, it’s not sitting low or anything that I can obviously see.

So yesterday I had a bit of an off at Loton Park, slid across the grass, over the top of a bank and landed with a bump. The NSR now runs a lot more camber than the OSR and I suspect as it landed it dragged the bottom of the wheel outwards. Strangely, it actually steers and brakes in a straight...

I did the same. Shorter ratios 1-3 from a 200, short final drive from a scenic, blackline diff, pms flywheel.

I had mine rebuilt at Rentune in Hinckley. Rich did a fantastic job.

The trouble is that by buying cheap, do you get the same quality. I guess it depends on how long you intend keeping the car.

I bought some service stuff the other week and it arrived next day

They're definitely available as I've just called my local main dealer after getting a bit paranoid about mine being 14 years old and the only one I have. I'd read somewhere - don't know if it's true - that the keycard can be the cause of the old "steering not locked" message with the car failing...

The 235/45 are Yoko A052s and they are epic.