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I just know the 2 piece Reyland that I have, and that's just my view.

I would do the same procedure as you do for the pads to prepare the discs. And I strongly advise against used pads on new discs, as you want the new pads and discs to be mated to each other, as the wear on the old pads will not exactly match the new ones. In my mind, the only thing to worry...

Isn't the belt needing a replacement? Couldn't help to notice that it's slightly nicked on the side...

Thanks for the feedback! I was afraid of the penny wise, pound fool, but it seems I will be fine :)

Doing some more research, since I'll need to change my battery sometime in the near future, this one seems to have a decent price and bit more starting current capability at 320A, https://bateriasweb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/ficha-t%C3%A9cnica-EVH-12240.pdf

Are you sure it's a good choice of battery? The rated max discharge current of 220A seems too low for starting the car. I have a Genesis (sister brand to Odissey) and the rated max discharge is over the triple at 675A.

How do the batteries compare in weight? Sounds like a good alternative for a reasonable price :smile:

I took the hint from the R3 engine assembly manual

Mine did not have one when I pulled the box, I simply bought one and put it in. For sure, some support to the input shaft won't hurt :)

If temperature is a problem, it will be primarily on the neck. You can always not put it to full heat by limiting water flow through the matrix

Nice lap!

Be mindful that if the AC was on, and you stall the car or stop for fuel you should turn it off and leave off for some minutes, to prevent overpressuring the compressor, since you're not considering the pressure before starting the compressor.

In my mind, where pads bind is where they slide, not where they're clamped against the disk. Pulling them out and making sure that where they meet the spring, the spring itself and below the spring is clean and smooth would be my bet if they're sticking and/or squealing.

Have you checked the steering column bushing on the passenger side for play? It's a common wear item on our cars https://www.trackfocusdirect.com/product-page/megane-2-polyamide-plastic-steering-rack-bush-also-fits-clio-3-scenic-2-kango

More toe out loads the tire the "other" way than the corner. It's scrubbing the inner shoulder, and the cornering makes use of the outer shoulder or the outer wheel for most of the support. It just feels more nervous as the inner wheel is pulling extra to whatever side you turn. But that's...

I don't know if tire patching plugs are "fuel safe" but that would be something that would not come off easily by being a press fit into the hole EDIT: https://diygearpro.com/adhesives/best-epoxy-for-plastic-gas-tank-repair/

I understand, but that would make it closer to spring binding. Are there not any longer springs available?

I feel that it should be to allow longer springs and extra lift (with adequate pistons) without spring bind? (or did I interpret your words the wrong way?)

You need battery for that, as far as I know. Jump cables from another car should also do the trick.

car in neutral! else it will also measure the engines' compression :think: