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Funnily enough my spare wheels will have uni rainsport 3 on, and my cup rims have Yoko neova ad-08’s on also Having experienced hitting standing water on a bend on the yokes :oops: I knew what they’d be like in snow! Might as well be slicks :thumb:

Stronger mechanically? Probably not, but in the case of a motorbike it was probably just loosening up (my point with previous post is everything is effectively run in and heat cycled nicely prior to you getting it) and becoming more pokey (guessing that’s the stronger you refer to) with a bit of...

Most new engines are dyno tested and therefore run in effectively, just lucky I’d have said...

We are presuming your car is a cup chassis as you haven’t said otherwise

Yes shells work harden during heat cycles, see posts in the thread in the other thread... didn’t realise it was this one, I’d be following exactly what they say to the letter and warming up/cooling down the engine a lot

There are two schools of thought... One is yes you do and then the opposite... From and engineering perspective you should allow the bearings to gently wear any imperfections out and effectively match themselves to the crank, work harden and also allow them to do this very gradually, driving...

A gnats cock is small, so a small amount out, ie millimetres

I wouldn’t with winter coming up, Pilot sport 4 or Uniroyal RainSport 3 as a budget option :)

Genuine are pretty damn good :)

Or just do it how renault and most car manufacturers do if it’s a gnats cock out, literally bend the hinges, only need to move a mm for a 4mm drop at the rear

I just set my motorfactors on and they got a few in, I then measured my genuine Renault ones and we compared notes, none of them were long enough, most that are listed for 2.0 were for a normal chassis not the wider RS chassis, think we tried five or six from various brands, in the end I ordered...

ebay item number 182041414112 were correct for my 09 reg cup :french: cheaper than anywhere and are genuine Renault parts, you cant buy these aftermarket sadly, don't know why as they are made by someone, in a few years the licence will run out, I looked at loads that claimed to fit, but...

anthracite 197 rims coming soon! if I like em, the cup rims may go the same way!

if you want to oversteer you put the new tyres on the front not the rear :( and a sensor reading 2000mph will make the abs and traction not work at all, not just cruise

You want the drum sticks as they are affectionately called, two secs I’ll dig you a link out to where I got them...

The only issue you may or may not have but I have seen is putting the wrong size tyres on one axle only can cause grief with traction control/abs as the wheel speed will be thrown out ie in a straight line all wheel speeds should be identical, but with two different sized tyres they will be...

https://www.clio197.net/threads/spring-rates-damper-rebound-rid-me-of-this-dreadful-200-cup-suspension.49874/page-2#post-584467 Hope that helps, I’d go H&R lowering springs looking at those rates on the thread at the top of the posts

There is a thread somewhere with the spring rates of various lowering springs, I’d go for the stiffest rears you can get and perhaps a middle rated front if you can find that combination

yawn!

I managed to get some pincers like the knipex ones in the video in and used the driveshaft as a rest for one handle and just pressed on the other handle to close the clip, took a lot of force though doing it one handed did do both sides like that though