Search results

It has nothing to do with kerb surfing... cornering forces act sideways and the bushes move in there housings, so it’s driving the car that moves them... so yes you probably will as lots of people have who don’t drive into kerbs

It’s one of those situations where being in the trade and speaking to various people you get the idea of who knows their stuff... the guy just stayed on point no matter what I asked him and basically custom breaks into every cars ecu when he gets one for the first time and does a bespoke map for...

Noble motorsport in Chesterfield are pretty damn crash hot, rollers are accurate which breaks people’s hearts as well... and a tiny little place in Ripley, Derbyshire called autotech (cleverest bloke Ive ever met when it comes to ecus and tuning... does 90% of his work on racecars so peaky 16v...

My yokes are coming off and uniroyal RainSport3 are being fitted to a set of spare 197 rims for my 200 cup, why skimp on tyres, even my van has four brand new uniroyal rainexperts fitted and even that grips like a good un’

Yes they are, it may well be that you are correct in your solution

Check for twelve volts at the switch, one side or the other will be live, if there’s no live it’s a matter of following it back to a plug on the fuse box The fella whose name escapes me who is a super bike mechanic normally is pretty good with wiring diagrams... @turkie172 just popped into my...

Checked I’d think and the claim put in

The post cat sensor is definitely heated, it’s more critical on the heating side than the upstream one as they have to be at least at 200-300 degrees to work right from memory and the lower is further away from the explosions so to speak so it will heat up slower, hence it having a heater also...

I have no clue what it is being honest, however if you want to remove that from where it is, I’d trace the wires back to the airbag ecu if it is from that and just move it, shorten the wires and cut the excess out as long as it’s fixed down well I’d presume it wouldn’t give you any grief, as...

It’s either the cut option or lower the rear axle and slide out and in, and yes you do have to remove the rear diffuser... as for the clamp, any decent exhaust fitting centre will have one :)

As an aside, don’t forget that when jacked up to feel for play it’s very possible you won’t feel anything as the loading and therefore the location of worn areas doesn’t sit in alignment and in fact there may still be play that you can’t feel, disassembly is the only way to truly check in that...

Where do you live? Perhaps someone near you with a 200 cup could come have a drive or even a lowered 197/200 I’m at j28 M1 if that’s anywhere near you? Edit... Just seen your in Shropshire so perhaps someone may live nearby

Idiots tighten the cable from the handbrake end to make the handbrake feel better, when in reality the handbrake adjustment is ONLY to take the slack out of the cables, not to make the handbrake feel better and adjust the pads, so in essence no, adjustment shouldn’t be required... only slight to...

Tbh I had considered cutting (and welding an extra plate for strength) my top mounts further in to effectively oval the hole and make it possible to add camber with slotting the bolt holes, see no reason why it wouldnt work nicely

Are the handbrake arms sitting against there stops on the caliper? If not they are defo not doing you any favours... they stick over and have the exact symptoms you describe, this reduces foot brake efficiency as the ratchet mechanism doesn’t work correctly and normally causes imbalance in hand...

B being perfectly honest I couldn’t tell you where it is :(

Weld it, It lasted 10+ years with a weld... should last the same again :)

Make sure it’s not just a handbrake cable sticking, free it off and cut away the rusty bubble and away you go! :)

225/40r18 would be a better match, but you will possibly need the arches rolling which may be impossible on the front being plastic arches... I’d go for 7.5 with a higher offset to be safe and the slightly narrower tyre...

This ^^^^ leave the strut top area alone, if it’s structural metal it isn’t optional...