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Awesome, what are you using? I started setting up openfoam but soon realised it was going to take a long time to get something working so have parked it for now. I would be interested in the data, my understanding is that cleaning the air at the rear would help the diffuser but maybe not. As...

Priority since Snett has been to improve cooling, having confirmed thermostat was working and no leaks the general consensus on insta was that my radiator was past its best. Easy fix with a replacement from frogjam. I then got carried away and made some ali ducting to go around the...

Your intitial description sounds like battery or earth but the low battery error is pretty standard and is always the alternator (regulator) assuming your earths are all good.

Oil is pumped to the bearings, jets and head, the former gets sprayed everywhere and settles into the sump and the latter drains down basically on the inside of the block. The rear main has an oil feed from main cap 1 so it sees a lot of oil and tends to leak if old or not seated correctly.

That will be rear main but if you have put 5.3ltr in it’s potentially because it’s overfull rather than a seal that needs replacing especially if it’s leaking and you haven’t started it yet as there shouldn’t be any oil that high

Snetterton Round 6/7 Left the house at 4:30 to find myself talking to the police 5 minutes later when I came across a 4 year old in the next village on the pavement in her pj’s in the rain/dark, somehow had escaped from her house and was very confused / scared. This obviously delayed me so...

If it’s on a ramp and it was me, I would dump the oil, drop the sump, clean and replace the gasket as well as checking for any sludge on the oil pump pick-up. Also watch out for those plastic dipsticks as they can snap.

Have you checked the oil level on the dipstick? I find 5.1ltr with a filter change would put it at max. Regarding the flush I would never use something like that unless I was going to drop the sump and give it a proper clean afterwards even then not sure it’s worth the risk.

Its pure manifold attached to an Akra with a 200 cell cat welded in between. The smack was annoyance for having to lift slightly on the exit as I went in a bit too hot :sweatsmile: Ah no, I was bedding in some new DS1.11 which I forgot to mention.

Finally bolted on the splitter I have been working on for a while, car looked awesome. Fell off on lap 1, luckily just one side so was able to get back to the pits with the smell of burning ply. I severely underestimated the amount of downforce it would create having bolted it to the...

I would assume fresh tyres will help but I imagine the cause is your spring rates, now you have fixed the RC the frontend is too stiff relative to the rear.

Agreed, I think seat time is the answer. In my case it was 100% the pads as the issue went when I switched back. Yeah clios do like an aggressive driver, braking late / over braking and the momentum just dies.

Last minute booking at Snetterton with MSV last Thursday, decided the drive was worth the £200 saving over Brands and I needed some practice. Pleasant surprise to bump into @Helpimonfire as I was pulling the car off the trailer. I think it was about 90% race cars who all had the same idea...

There isn't that much of an overlap so once mapped it was set to 1072 although this was with high comp pistons.

Potentially main seal, I would give it a good clean up with some brake cleaner and try and see where it comes from.

Yes I did in the race engine before it dropped a valve, they are basically a direct copy of catcams 403 without the timing issues sometimes faced with catcams. Send Lee an email at piper and I am sure he can sort you out a good price :wink:

I think it needs to be 32bit

I will force myself to test all three next time I am out, no feed, feed and upside down. My only concern is the heat from the rad as I imagine it’s pointing directly at/above it.

I decided this was the cheap/quick option but might go down the air feed through the light if this works, not a fan of no lights though tbh. Yep, I was going to photoshop you both out :grin:

Got the car stripped down and did a full nut and bolt check, only bolt slightly out of spec was the bump steer kit nut that goes into the track rods. I torque it over spec at 30Nm but seems to loosen anyway, has now become part of ‘post track check’. Looks like during Combe I lost a fire...