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I have a spare gearbox casing (shell) that I’m happy to sell, if you wanted to arrange for it to be built up using parts sourced from the UK, then couriered to you. I know it probably won’t be cheap but doesn’t sound like you have a lot of options locally.

Yep, I wouldn't be taking it off

I see you blanked off the brake cooling, is that because Goodwood is a bit faster without as many braking zones?

Looks quick! Sounds good too. What exhaust are you running again? Love the little smack on the steering wheel at the end, was that in frustration or celebration?

The one you’ve linked to is not in that location, it is a replacement for the blue part:

Yes it’s supposed to be there:

It’s the subframe cross member

I don't see any issues with the driving style on that video, lines and turn-in seem good. Lots of tyre squeal though which makes me think you have indeeed reached the end of the sweet spot for those MRFs. Possibly tyre pressures too high but you've said you were checking those? @EthanMenace...

That's interesting what you're saying about understeer, I found the opposite after doing the modification(s), the front end was very keen to get to the apex and once you're on the throttle the Gripper just drags it round. The rear end feels quite mobile, which @RSRowe has mentioned to me before...

Made a bit more progress on this, with the engine running I was able to access the stored fault codes and clear them. I haven't yet figured out how to programme anything but that could just be me, CLIP isn't the most intuitive UI.

Could be, their support/help (WhatsApp group) has just ignored me thus far

Plenty, I ordered 2m and had loads left

This is entirely understandable given the shunt you had in the white shell

The beauty of the 41degrees duct is that it is static on the hub. As long as you run the ducting on a route that doesn’t foul the wheel then it will remain clear at all times. The duct is angled to promote this routing anyway: You can obviously do a static test lock to lock to make sure you...

Sorry, that was mean :oops: You'll either need to remove the front half of the arch liner, or cut a hole to be able to pass your ducting through. Neither was an issue for me as I didn't have the front half of the arch liners anyway.

No, the air comes in via bluetooth from the front of the car to the caliper

Time to fit my spare modified starter motor, which does away with the brazed connector and replaces it with a ring connector bolted to the power terminal. Let's hope this lasts. The install is the opposite, except it isn't. Wrap the starter motor back in the heat wrap, on the off chance that...

Replaced the dead starter motor yesterday. What a horrible job. The heat wrapped exhaust and heat wrapped starter didn't protect the brazing that I've talked about on previous posts, and it's failed yet again in Germany. Got the front of the car up in the air (what I'd give for a two post...

It does come with CLIP v219 but I haven't yet got to the bottom of whether all the features are working. I seem to have some greyed out options on mine, and I have a sneaking suspicion I'm missing out on the features I actually wanted, which I'll be pissed off about if that's the case. This is...

Glad you clarified the year there Gav