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Got to be worth bleeding the clutch

What pads are they ? If race material have they been bedded in correctly ? Had similar issues with DS2500's leaving deposits on the disks that could only be removed by having the disks skimmed

When we tried 15mm spacers we had a problem. We found the hub protrusion front and rear was greater than 15mm. we tried a set from Direnza and the hubcentric bit bottomed out before the spacer was fully down. These went back for credit. The alternative would be to modify the hubs !!! We did...

B14's and 20mm spacers - we had no issues, oh apart from the tyres eating the wheel arch liners when on track ! ! But seriously this is a decent set up

your only adjustment is front toe, if you want agile / turn in go for a little toe out - maybe 1mm total the rear you will have to shim to correct or change all depends on how much time / money you wish to put into it get it on an alignment rig and see where you are starting from

As above I always use copper grease

The spacers are alloy so no rust I used studs and nuts - 90mm at the front and 82mm at the rear

Not seen or used the ones you link to These are the ones we used - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-20MM-BIMECC-HUBCENTRIC-KIT-ALLOY-WHEEL-SPACERS-FIT-RENAULT-CLIO-MK3-197-06-9-/182787830760?epid=908668718&hash=item2a8f00f3e8:g:c5kAAOxyGwNTB0lo

That's correct it's not a blind hole

We used these spacers...

"We'd already covered this. And it was mentioned here it would end up as a 65mm thread length on the chassis end - basing the overall length at 195mm (Derived from a 200mm bolt). This was too keep 'material' and labour costs down and i was informed the 65mm thread length would cause no problems...

Personally I would go for 20mm hub centric slip on spacers and convert to m14 studs and nuts For 20mm spacers I'd use 90mm front studs and 82mm rear studs

A 200mm bolt is not long enough, they usually have 65mm of thread. If you reduce the thread length to say 35mm you now only have a total length of 165 which isn't long enough. You need to start with a 250mm bolt minimum

Absolute bargain that

I still think you need to add an M12 nut welded to the tow strap end (or machined flats if you have the equipment to do it) to aid install and removal of the M20 bolt on its own

I made the bolt length such that a) the bottom edge of the cover was cut and the strap attached such that the strap dangled down with the cover on or b) the strap could be folded / rolled up and put behind the cover i.e. not visible

Its standard M20 bolt - 2.5mm pitch I started with a 300mm bolt, had some of the thread end machined off so it didn't take for ever to screw in. Length machined down to XXmm (this bit I cant remember) Drill / tap the end to take an M12 bolt say 30mm long I did weld a drilled out M12 nut to...

I think I started with a 300mm M20 bolt

Its an M20 thread, I posted a pic or two some time ago of our attempt. I think I used a 300mm bolt cut down to the required length, then got a mate to thread the end M12. hopefully the picture will help http://www.clio197.net/threads/tow-strap-bolt.56974/#post-649199 - post 9

We used a 14' x 6'3" prg not sure you could get away with anything less. What u towing it with ?