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Awesome job that mate, especially for how relatively little you spent. Props!

Epic garage! How much did the build cost you roughly if you don't mind me asking? Just I am currently on the hunt to buy a house so would be good to get a rough idea. Guessing you did a lot yourself but I would hope to also! Keep the car updates going mate, awesome as always.

Hi Jack, Thanks for the update.. your build goes from strength to strength! You still liking your AST's? Not sure if you've had a chance to use them in anger on track yet? I'm planning on buying some 5100's (80/80 spring rates), along with some PMS top mounts (bit cheaper than AST's, and...

It was a great day mate. Look forward to the next one! And thanks again for letting my have a go in your car :)

Sorry to bring up bad memories, but I was wondering what diff you had, and what diff you moved onto? Ever find out what caused the failure?

So would you say following this method isn't really achieving the goal of bleeding the clutch?

That's a great tip regarding the boot.. will make sure that isn't clinging on to the piston before I start, also hear a squirt of brake cleaner under the boot can help if its sticking. I'm a bit confused about the first bit though mate, isn't the whole idea of the rewind tool to turn it...

I'm only doing discs themselves bud, then a fluid bleed. Still got some fairly new DS2500's (~4k miles, 2 trackdays) that I plan to reuse. Pretty sure I never got any bolts with them either when I had them fitted last year.

@PITA @suj @littleg78 Thanks gents. Will grab a 12mm hex socket and a flare spanner as suggested. Managed to find a 36mm socket in my toolbox :thumb:. Much appreciated! I am a bit confused about the rear calliper bolts, are these a must change item...

Having my first go at this this weekend... any advice? Also is there any special tooling required beyond the obvious (I have torque wrench, regular socket, spanner sizes etc)? I'm just changing rotors, then bleeding all callipers. Got myself a Sealey pressure bleeder, PlusGas to try and loosen...

Ah nice, Diss is where I stop off on the way to to get a brimful of V-Power! I'm in Halesworth. Good luck with the build and keep up the great posts!

Can't wait to see the onboards! Give me a shout if you're ever at Snetterton, love to see it in the flesh!

Sorry for the 9 year late response, but I believe it's as below: Front discs: 26mm Rear discs: 9.5mm

Completely standard geometry wise. I'd love to get some adjustable top mounts / coilovers at some point, but for now the car is plenty of fun on track with the factory setup. So you think 29 hot seems like a good target?

Afternoon all! I've got a trackday on the 22nd at Snetterton, and will be putting my R888R's to use for the first time. Does anyone have any experience with these tyres on track? My current plan is to start at 24F / 25R, aiming for 29 hot. Here is the table provided by Toyo: My car is on...

Offset of the stock wheels is ET68, so your new wheels will be like your current wheels but with 28mm spacers. I highly doubt you will want to run any additional spacers with your new setup.

Are you running spacers there? And are they ET55 same as the Ultraleggara's? Looks fantastic by the way!

I used this: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-205902-elf-tranself-nfp-75w-80-transmission-fluid.aspx

Yeah, that's the major downside, best price I've found for an AR-1 is £155, whereas, like you say, the Cup 2's can be had for £115. However, they do seem to get never ending praise (apart from being heavy), when compared to just about every other semi slick out there, so perhaps the extra cash...

I wasn't aware of that.. I'm also on the hunt for some semi slicks. Nankang advertise on their website that the AR-1's come with 5.5mm of tread depth, which is similar to most other semi slicks as far as I know?