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On a turbo car you use a return so that you can have a rising rate regulator and a constant fuel pressure at the tip. If you don't raise the fuel pressure along with boost you end up loosing effective pressure on the injector tip. Less pressure means less flow the injector can make. 3bar of...

I'm not planning on kerb surfing, so I shouldn't have major issues :) Thanks for the feedback

If you need to adjust the front camber why not consider something like this? https://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Front+Arm+Front+Bush+Camber+Adjustable/11162.html Despite having the early style I don't want to fit the coils since I'm really happy with the cup stock spring and shocks...

Some knocking then?

What caused the melting on the exhaust side? Lean mixture?

What happened to be the issue with the ignition?

Didn't you had a loose barrel recently? Some wire might have gone bad with all that movement where it shouldn't happen...

While doing the flexi's job either the trigger cable or the main power cable to the starter might have sustained some damage and now it broke PS: First thing I would do would be to get under the car and manually try to make the starter work by connecting the trigger to the main power cable with...

yes, it's and ally cover with a C spring to push fit the shield into the starter itself not the best description and could not find pictures

Have you drilled the ends of the cracks to release stress and prevent them from growing further (under the reinforcement plates)?

The VCI needs to be unlocked to you ECU or else you won't be able to write the calibration into the ECU

Wouldn't dropping the pressure bellow the normal help more? From my experience, lower pressure increases the contact patch (thus more friction and temperatur) and allows more deflection in the sidewall to make the tire less snappy on adherence loss.

Was the oil pump pick-up clogged? If so it can be due to residue from the cam cover seal being scraped off to apply new when the timing was done.

And it lives! :lol: Couple weeks ago had the first start and went for quick trip to the car wash to take all the dust out. Collecting some miles on soft driving before an oil and filter change so that normal usage can then be resumed. https://youtu.be/vt-A6e7lf9c Only fault is that it after...

The rocker cover I had from the clio guide and was sure it was OK. For the crank, rods and head I only had that same guide that you had shared and was unsure, because I didn't knew if the crank bolts would be the same due to mentioning ARP "Put in place the crankshaft bearings’ ARP bolts (Ref ...

I'd say to pull the bottom hose of the radiator to remove most of the green stuff. Hose in the themostat housing to wash the remaining out. You should be able to use all the coolant you bought and probably even need to top up with a bit of water.

Can ayone share the tightening sequences for the engine on OEM components? * Rods * Crank * Head Thanks!

I'd say the results would be similar... from my understanding of the tests in the video, as long as you don't go "full retard" on the cross section reduction with the dents it's mostly up to the primary lengths to get the power and not that much with the cross section. Regardless, doing that to...

Just a quick share about knocking headers and giving them a small dent to clear... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azPKIjxmmdU It's based on a V8, but it doesn't really matter...

Thanks for the links mate! I should be able to get along without replacing the engine. The machine shop says that the crank is salvageable and I've bought a set of OEM rods from Rich to replace the busted one. +0,25mm oversize main and rod bearings have already been bought and I'm currently...