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In this order; Replace the thermostat ASAP - as mentioned above, if the car is constantly adjusting the map (likely running rich) to try and get it up to temp, it'll cause performance issues. I had a busted thermostat and replaced it within 20 minutes, noticeable difference immediately. Get...

Perhaps not relevant but... I have the RSTuner from Fastchip.nl and paid for the EPS module (I have a 197) and it unlocks the ability to read faults + change the steering strategy... https://fastchip.nl/shop/clio/clio-3-products/trw-eps-support-for-clio-3-detail Decent bit of kit (the...

Hi fella, yeah thermostats are common to go on these. It's a simple job to replace but make sure you buy a genuine thermostat as the standard ones are rated slightly higher than the original part (can't recall the correct figures)...

Somebody give @turkie172 a raise holy sh*t.....

Do you have the engine under-covers fitted (or at least, were they in place) when the belt got shredded? If not then it'll be tough to point the finger!

Wheel alignment and tyre balancing can be so underrated at times. Get it done and they'll likely tell you if any of your rods/arms are failing at the same time.

Gander = pull each fuse and relay out and inspect for damage, melted plastic or corrosion. Also any water or humidity within the box. I think it has a rubber-like seal that can perish over time which doesnt help when trying to keep water out of this fuse box!

Have a gander at the fuse box under the bonnet, these can get water ingress and slowly corrode/damage the electrical components which may be the cause here... it's relatively common and if not caught early enough, could result in a new fuse/UHC unit being required!

If your alarm is already popping off randomly then you've nothing to lose by checking the cabling in the rear and on the unit... You have asked for some help/advice and I have given you some things to try and identify what is causing the issue (which cost nothing)... seems a tad pointless...

Remove the boot lining on the left side (if looking into your boot from the rear). The alarm unit/speaker is placed here. You will also find 2 grey cables going to both rear sensors. Check these are in-tact and not broken on either end (sensor end and connection to the alarm unit). The alarm...

My fuel pump failed after hitting a "medium sized" pothole a few years ago. I have read on multiple fuel pump failures and most say it's intermittent and a good whack with the palm of your hand on the fuel tank under the car can sometimes bring the pump back to life. For what it's worth and...

It's difficult to help because you're not local - I just want to jump in and unpick this for a few hours to sort it but I'm pretty sh*t at expressing the methodical/logical troubleshooting when it's not in front of me... if you know what I mean? Haha.... My honest opinion at this point... Send...

The comment on this suggests if you are running coax (phono) connectivity for front/rear then it has auto-sensing. Meaning it will turn on/off automatically and usually turns itself OFF when there has been 2 - 3 minutes of no activity. Have you checked this out?

This blue/white wire needs to be connected to the blue/white wire that comes from the amp (wire number 17 on the below)

This is indeed your issue. If you pull the bullet connector out - what happens with the AMP then?

Also - I just realised the remote cable comes direct from the HU, not your vehicle's wiring.... This is a typical ISO harness for the Pioneer head units - note how the blue/white cable isn't connected to the other plugs - this is the Remote cable that should be connected to Pin 17...

Sorry - to make this clearer; Ignition OFF and test numbers 16 & 17.

Interesting - So on the back of the Pioneer HU, you should find a 12V remote cable. This usually only sends the signal when the head unit powers ON. This leads me to thinking the green wire is not the "remote" wire. Also - the amp you have is not the average amplifier that runs the 3 main...

Also - is that a connects2 adapter you have in the first pic? If so, pull it out and just work with the basics for the moment, get it sorted without the steering wheel controls for now and once you're happy it's working without, we can get that plumbed in afterwards?

I had a Pioneer unit fitted with a JL Audio Amp and Sub and it was perfect. Head unit would turn on when ignition powered on, amp was connected to the remote cable on the ISO harness (provided with the Pioneer HU). I have done a fair few sub/amp installs and it was flawless for ~4 years until I...