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Solid everything. No rubber left. Perfect NVH for a jaunt across Europe

I wish it was a bit lighter, but I don’t want to completely hack it to bits and ruin what’s left of any comfort or looks.

Mine is 1219kg with 5/8ths of a tank, full weld in cage with additional roof diagonal (I like symmetry). Airbags out, full strip and paint, carbon door cards, carbon Kevlar seats, ultraleggeras.

I thought you said it was already mapped by Unicorn?

FFS I feel for you K20 it

I love how nobody reads stuff these days: "You can not use the engine undertray with this item as the rear legs are removed as per the Renault Cup racer car specs". Direct fit for Clio 3rs (197/200) this aluminium replacement radiator support not only saves weight but will not rust away like...

Nope

It's Wheeler, not Weeder https://www.wheelermotorsport.co.uk/product/clio-3rs-aluminum-radiator-support

Any thread updates? @s88thy

It did, whenever it's the Calcutta Cup I support Scotland (I'm half Scottish and played Scotland U19/U21 when I was younger) :kilt:

I've never been happy with the way my brake cooling ducts were fitted, pointing(ish) at the caliper and disc but zip tied to the swivel. It was questionable where the air was being directed and eventually the back and forth of the swivel knuckle just ripped the tubing. An option was to go for...

A day of mixed emotions would probably sum up today. After the limp mode issues at Donington Park in the last post I’d done some further reading thanks to @turkie172 research and all signs pointed to a faulty injector. The coil packs and injectors share the same loom, and the coil packs and...

Didn't realise you were in Portugal, so ambient temps should be higher but I'd have thought road driving would cope just fine (unless you're driving like a lunatic :openmouth:)

You shouldn’t need brake cooling on the road. Decent pads and uprated fluid should be more than enough. A few of us run cooling ducts on track cars but that is because we are hard on the brakes corner after corner, lap after lap, at higher than road speeds. Try a decent pad/disc/fluid combo...

If it's just a road car, after a rebuild I think you'll be fine for a while. Change the gearbox oil regularly and avoid smashing it between gears at high revs. Just take an extra second or two to shift and you should be fine. I reckon most of the damage is done early in the car's life either by...

Permanent fix options: 1. Remove the syncros and go straight cut dog box https://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/tl4-dog-engagement-gearbox £££ 2. Remove the TL4 gearbox and fit sequential Sadev box from X85 Cup Racer - ££££ 3. Honda K20/K24 conversion - £££££

Prob quite hard to get good pics when the car is in the barrier :poke: (Too soon?) :tongueout:

Yeah I'd imagine so, most places would drop the subframe to get the gearbox out, then you need to ask yourself whether it's worth doing the clutch while you have good access. If you're having the front subframe off you'll probably need the front end alignment checking afterwards in case anything...

Depends what you mean by a rebuild. Some companies might only replace the syncros. Some might do syncro and one or two bearings. Others might do the whole refresh. @RSRowe had a screenshot of the true cost of parts if you were doing the whole thing, I can't seem to find it now, but from memory...