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I don't think the 197/200 really needs these to be honest? The standard bushes seem fairly solid and the chassis is stiffness is perfect for the road. If you want a track focused setup then look at the cup/R3 stuff which is available off the shelf.

Would suggest you save an extra bit and go for KW V1, tried and tested kit from a top quality manufacturer

Also a LOT easier to knock the pins out whilst the caliper it still bolted to the hub as you need to give them a really hard hit sometimes

The metal tube that goes over the threaded part? If so, yes I have that. Everything was fitted by KTEC so not sure exactly what was done when they fitted them but everything was perfect until recently (been on the car 18 months ish), not even sure if it's suspension related to be honest, could...

Very sceptical of this. I've actually done a lot of R&D work on fuel injection systems and the only time you get significant carbon deposits in the injectors is after sitting at idle for long periods of time (low temperature). As soon as you get any heat back in the system the carbon deposits...

I never get this, except from mates/colleagues!

It must be something to do with the additional air intake which is normally to the right side of the engine bay, which Yiannis has removed because he has the KTR induction kit

Just stuck a washer under the top nut on my rear shocks. No luck.... Had a wiggle of the exhaust backbox too and didn't hear any knocking there. The most likely suspect is now the trim around the rear window, wiggling this makes exactly the same knocking sound..... strange

It's just that I got a quote from him in the past to align and setup my coilovers and seem to remember it was in the £200-£300 area which was just too much IMO. But if it's £144 inc. (2 hours) that's not too bad. I had a quote to fit braided lines in the past and it was also very high, fitted...

I did replace that exhaust mount a while back but will check it again, cheers gaz!

So how much did Mark actually change the setup of the coilovers etc? I've been to mark a few times and think he's great but he's very expensive IMO

The top is rebound isn't it? To sort the dive surely I need to change the compression which is the one at the bottom?

Yea, everytime you adjust them you have to fully close the valves (turn the knob all the way to + position) and then count the clicks you turn back. The more clicks the softer they are. Bottom one is compression and top one is rebound, both are low speed controls, high speed damping isn't...

At the moment I'm on 6 clicks bottom and 12 clicks top. Rides nicely. I did try something like 8 bottom and 15 top which is a bit softer but didn't feel quite as well controlled as 6/12 so I'm taking a little ride comfort sacrifice for something which feels a bit better. On the last track day...

I have CL RC6 in mine at the moment, bought them for track days as the DS2500 just overheated and left deposits all over my discs. They are awesome!! I mean DS2500 are a good step up from standard but it's an even bigger step up from DS2500 to the CLs. The plan was to move back to DS2500 for...

Should be a nice upgrade, which pad compound did you go for?

Are all these related to the front dampers? I've had a knocking from the back which also happens at low speed over speed bumps etc and haven't been able to find the source. It's a typical worn top mount knock so I took the top mounts out and there doesn't seem to be any play but this thread is...

I have no regrets going for the V3s even though they were mega money. It's great that you can have a softer (yet still more controlled) setup than FF suspension for the road and in 5 mins you're on a hard track setup. Perfect if you plan on doing a few track days

For the road V1s are probably enough. If you're doing road and track then V3s are a godsend :)

Sad day :( I thought you would never sell this car! Hope the fiesta is good for you