Yiannis' Albi Blue R27 - Toning down...
- Thread starter Yiannis197
- Start date
Yiannis197
Paid Member
I only had them for 4000 miles [MENTION=41063]Pav[/MENTION], basically they only lasted for the last year's trip in the alps, the trip in Wales and some town driving lol our cars go through front tyres I'm afraid as you well know!
Yiannis197
Paid Member
Got the shocks back from AST today. I eventually opted for the 5200 upgrade instead of just servicing as it made total sense taking into consideration the expenses. Also Curtis from AST made me a deal I couldn't decline so 2-way it was.
Different valving overall and softer springs than before at the back (80N/mm), I also kept the old springs in case I'm not happy, however with the compression now being adjustable the stiffness will be easily tuned. I'll make sure to put the canisters in the boot for easy adjustment as well, fitting on Tuesday. Some pics;
DSC_0257 by YiannisR27, on Flickr
DSC_0258 by YiannisR27, on Flickr
AST 5200 clio 197 by YiannisR27, on Flickr
AST 5200 clio 197 by YiannisR27, on Flickr
Has to be said that I'm impressed with the quality of the materials being used on this product especially after reading Foxy's comment about his much newer Ohlins. The shocks are 3 years old with 30k miles on a daily car, they have seen loads of water and grit but there are no signs of rust and corrosion at all apart from the rear helper springs. Happy days
Different valving overall and softer springs than before at the back (80N/mm), I also kept the old springs in case I'm not happy, however with the compression now being adjustable the stiffness will be easily tuned. I'll make sure to put the canisters in the boot for easy adjustment as well, fitting on Tuesday. Some pics;
DSC_0257 by YiannisR27, on FlickrDSC_0258 by YiannisR27, on FlickrAST 5200 clio 197 by YiannisR27, on FlickrAST 5200 clio 197 by YiannisR27, on FlickrHas to be said that I'm impressed with the quality of the materials being used on this product especially after reading Foxy's comment about his much newer Ohlins. The shocks are 3 years old with 30k miles on a daily car, they have seen loads of water and grit but there are no signs of rust and corrosion at all apart from the rear helper springs. Happy days
Got the shocks back from AST today. I eventually opted for the 5200 upgrade instead of just servicing as it made total sense taking into consideration the expenses. Also Curtis from AST made me a deal I couldn't decline so 2-way it was.
Different valving overall and softer springs than before at the back (80N/mm), I also kept the old springs in case I'm not happy, however with the compression now being adjustable the stiffness will be easily tuned. I'll make sure to put the canisters in the boot for easy adjustment as well, fitting on Tuesday. Some pics;
DSC_0257 by YiannisR27, on Flickr
DSC_0258 by YiannisR27, on Flickr
AST 5200 clio 197 by YiannisR27, on Flickr
AST 5200 clio 197 by YiannisR27, on Flickr
Has to be said that I'm impressed with the quality of the materials being used on this product especially after reading Foxy's comment about his much newer Ohlins. The shocks are 3 years old with 30k miles on a daily car, they have seen loads of water and grit but there are no signs of rust and corrosion at all apart from the rear helper springs. Happy days
very nice!
just shows up the ohlins does that.....its embarrassing :@
TB Rich
Paid Member
mmm remote res dampers, much want.
I assume you have no fitment issues? I read something about a change in design on AST's and potentially some clearance/rubbing issues? I don't recall the exact issue or if it was resolved in the design change or not?
Also it looks like the tube is threaded right the way down so the ride height can be set independently to not mess with the pre-load, is the the case with these?
Cheers
I assume you have no fitment issues? I read something about a change in design on AST's and potentially some clearance/rubbing issues? I don't recall the exact issue or if it was resolved in the design change or not?
Also it looks like the tube is threaded right the way down so the ride height can be set independently to not mess with the pre-load, is the the case with these?
Cheers
Yiannis197
Paid Member
Yes Rich you are right mate regarding the ride height.
As you said there have been issues with the revised design (flasci's from here) but mine is the old design. Basically these are my old 5100s which have been upgraded to 5200s changing only the internal bits.
I'm a bit wary about the front canisters though, there is really no space in the engine bay and I'll probably have to modify the scuttle to run the hose through.
[MENTION=38628]TB Rich[/MENTION] since you do know your stuff mate any good ideas for mounting the canisters? Any after market mounts for neat installation?
As you said there have been issues with the revised design (flasci's from here) but mine is the old design. Basically these are my old 5100s which have been upgraded to 5200s changing only the internal bits.
I'm a bit wary about the front canisters though, there is really no space in the engine bay and I'll probably have to modify the scuttle to run the hose through.
[MENTION=38628]TB Rich[/MENTION] since you do know your stuff mate any good ideas for mounting the canisters? Any after market mounts for neat installation?
TB Rich
Paid Member
Interesting and tough one indeed as the strut tops are beyond the weather seals of the scuttle area. You could drill through into the engine bay and grommet it, but means stripping the units apart and then assembling on the car once the hose is through the grommet to ensure a tight seal - but not really ideal as becomes a mega pain to remove and service. That area will probably see a lot of water too so I wouldn't on a daily want to risk the ingress of water into the bay either.
The R3's have the remote res in the wheel area but of course the hose is not being extended from a banjo out the top of the unit.
There is a bolt about 6 inches from the top mounts you could potentially use. Remove it and then add a large rubber lined P-clip to secure the res down, however you'd need to shorten the lines a fair bit. Also to check the bonnet actually closes and the res doesn't foul the wiper linkages - it looks tight in there!!
Have AST suggested anywhere? Can they maybe redo it and take the res feed from the bottom like they have done with the rears? Easier to then mount in the wheel area or feed upwards into the engine bay.
The R3's have the remote res in the wheel area but of course the hose is not being extended from a banjo out the top of the unit.
There is a bolt about 6 inches from the top mounts you could potentially use. Remove it and then add a large rubber lined P-clip to secure the res down, however you'd need to shorten the lines a fair bit. Also to check the bonnet actually closes and the res doesn't foul the wiper linkages - it looks tight in there!!
Have AST suggested anywhere? Can they maybe redo it and take the res feed from the bottom like they have done with the rears? Easier to then mount in the wheel area or feed upwards into the engine bay.
Yiannis197
Paid Member
Hmmm I was thinking to modify the scuttle and run the hose underneath it straight into the engine bay while using silicon to seal the gaps, the canisters won't have to move anyway. The hoses are quite long so I won't have issue mounting the right one somewhere at the front (as I don't have the OEM airbox) and the left one around the AC pipes.
I'll have a better look on Tuesday, fitting them at the wiper mechanism area is not ideal because as you said it sees a lot of water and also making the adjustment quite tricky.
The res at the rears is not at the bottom mate, it's exactly the same as the fronts. The rebound adjustment is at the bottom and the compression (canisters) at the top on all shocks. They are inverted that's why it looks like that
I'll have a better look on Tuesday, fitting them at the wiper mechanism area is not ideal because as you said it sees a lot of water and also making the adjustment quite tricky.
The res at the rears is not at the bottom mate, it's exactly the same as the fronts. The rebound adjustment is at the bottom and the compression (canisters) at the top on all shocks. They are inverted that's why it looks like that
Yiannis197
Paid Member
80N/mm all around mate. The default kit comes with 80N/mm and 50N/mm front and back respectively but I wasn't happy with such a "soft" spring at the back therefore I opted for the 80N/mm
Yiannis197
Paid Member
any updates? Have You had Your suspension fitted already? How does it compare to 5100? BTW what was the cost of upgrading to 5200 compared to rebuild if You don't mind me asking? Mine don't need a rebuild just yet but You'll never know, right.
Yiannis197
Paid Member
Hi mate sorry for the late response but I'm still in the alps, haven't got back yet from the trip. Unfortunately the car is in a Renault garage in France as it broke down (driveshaft damage). I'm now rolling in a hire corsa 1.2 which is not fun at all.
Suspension wise the car is night and day different. I've got loads of driving to do yet but first impressions are really positive. With the old track setup 5100s -and as you probably now - the car was totally focused, it would grip and grip as if there is no tomorrow. The rear end was totally planted and in order to get the most of it you'd have to be absolutely on it. Downside was that the playfulness was not there as it was all about the grip.
With the 5200s you can still have that should you wish to however I've now set the front on soft and the rear a bit harder but still soft'ish' with relative slow rebound. Now the rear is so mobile it's unreal without suffering from severe and unprogressive oversteer, it's seriously playful and with a little steering tweak it immediately helps the front end. It's so fun on the downhills and I really couldn't stop smiling, till the driveshaft moment lol.
I don't necessary go faster, in fact I don't think I am. However the fun factor is on a different level.
I paid £1400 for the upgrade. The service (plus replacing all the damaged bits) would cost me more than £700 so it only made sense. I believe RRP for this kit is shy £4k?
Suspension wise the car is night and day different. I've got loads of driving to do yet but first impressions are really positive. With the old track setup 5100s -and as you probably now - the car was totally focused, it would grip and grip as if there is no tomorrow. The rear end was totally planted and in order to get the most of it you'd have to be absolutely on it. Downside was that the playfulness was not there as it was all about the grip.
With the 5200s you can still have that should you wish to however I've now set the front on soft and the rear a bit harder but still soft'ish' with relative slow rebound. Now the rear is so mobile it's unreal without suffering from severe and unprogressive oversteer, it's seriously playful and with a little steering tweak it immediately helps the front end. It's so fun on the downhills and I really couldn't stop smiling, till the driveshaft moment lol.
I don't necessary go faster, in fact I don't think I am. However the fun factor is on a different level.
I paid £1400 for the upgrade. The service (plus replacing all the damaged bits) would cost me more than £700 so it only made sense. I believe RRP for this kit is shy £4k?
TB Rich
Paid Member
Fastest way to lap fwd is a mobile rear, gotta kill that understeer, this is why the Cup Racers run 130Nm/mm rear springs!! You've got a diff now so just keep your foot in (not that I would drive that way in the Alps!!!)
Need some pic's of the res's mounted £1400 for the upgrade vs £700 for a rebuild and you made the right choice for sure.
(not that I would drive that way in the Alps!!!)Need some pic's of the res's mounted
£1400 for the upgrade vs £700 for a rebuild and you made the right choice for sure.Thanks Yiannis I appreciate Your feedback. I have 90/110 springs setup and agree that on the road the rear is planted (I also run X85 Cup spoiler on the rear which really helps keeping the rear calm at high speed corners especially with less mass on the rear due to empty interior) but on the track while trail braking to the corner the rear still can be twitchy sometimes (it can be managed with altering geometry though). with the price premium over the rebuild I would also go for 5200.
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