UltraRed 200 FF CUP - Weekend warrior

I know two people which run that manifold with V6 airbox, big throttle body and Akra. One is mapped the other not so far. Both go quite well.
Thanks. I will have a look at RStuner, what it shows and make some logged runs. Maybe reload the Stg1 map.
 
Little update again. Tried to reload Fastchip STG1 map on Toyo manifold.Results were slightly better but car still runs really sluggish and weird. Also there still were knocking sound and manifold developed some whistling sount in higher rpm. Maybe some leak, but it was pressure tested after mounting and everything was fine. My patience came to an and so I let the original manifold be repaired. New flexis and custom made Y pipe.
Now toyosport is out, original manifold back , STG1 map reloaded and car runs as well as before the manifold failed. Dunno why, but my car simply did not like the Toyosport manifold and it also did not function with Fastchip STG1 map well. Car will be now sitting in the garage over winter. For the next season, i will ask Henk for remote custom mapping ,so everything runs as good as possible.
Also changed conical bushings that connects steering rods to hubs. Seems like it solves the knocking problem.

Car has now celebrated 100.000Km so lets hope it will run strong for another :smile:

I also very much like Potenza Sport tires. They're very good at wet, better than GY Assymetric 6 I would say. They complement stiff HR/Cup cobo bettery than Goodyears. Lets see how they will wear, through hotter summer. Buw I would like to buy second sset of wheels with some semis anyways. (maybe try Hankook RS4).
 

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Ah ok.

My friends car used to whistle around the same point, but per the video, it was more of a resonance.

He had the toyo downpipe and milltek catback
 
Long time no see :smiley:
So here are some updates. I have managed to mend and also to mangle some bits on clio :smile:

Had some problems with misfiring - new MAP sorted it out. I have changed coils while being at it as well.
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I have also new injectors in a garage waiting to be used.

Aaaan silverproject camber plates lying around. Hope they are good.

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Got myself some NS2R (I rate them high for daily, very fun tire, direct, stiff, when wet and cold nice to "train" being smooth, when in temp and dry it is very grippy and predictable and does not overheat after few miles like Potenza Sport :smile:

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And changed droplinks to adjustable H&R ones (must have when lowered - more grip at front).

So everything to have fun this season....

- few hours later :smiley: -

Car has occasional clunk from the front when taking of bit faster, nothing could bee seen and nothing seems to be loos in the garage. Then it slowly became louder, sometimes it was heard even when I go on the brakes before turn, or turning from the roundabout.
Then one day, driving through the village behind some BMW, I have heard like three metallic clinks like some metal plate being bashed on. I have continued, not being aware that that was probably my car (had my window open).
BMW slowed down to turn, I changed from 3 to 2, let off the clutch and car was like somebody was holding it and some metal grinding noise was heard. So disengage clutch, stop the car, to the 1st gear and take of.... no problem at all.
I took it very lightly and slowly to my home, and now I am afraid, what I will find, when I lfit the car at my friends garage :smiley:
Hope its not gearbox. I kinda of bet on driveshaft, but it does not give me any vibrations and juddering when turning and accelerating (that was the case of failed driveshaft on my Focus). No grease leaking, rubber boots intact.

So thats about the "season" so far. Perks of having a french sports car driven hard I guess, but still love that. Smiles for miles are incredible.
 
Since my car is lowered on HR springs, original droplinks were too short and pulling the swaybar up even at ride height. With longer droplinks swaybar angle is similar to original when not lowered if it makes sense. Now front is working "more", so better mechanical grip
 
I didn't had any problems in that direction when I still was on H&R springs and Cup dampers...mmmhhh?

Btw, I think you bought the used springs from one of my buddies. :wink:
 
I didn't had any problems in that direction when I still was on H&R springs and Cup dampers...mmmhhh?

Btw, I think you bought the used springs from one of my buddies. :wink:
I did not have "problems" either. Then original droplink failed, so I have changed them for adjustable and I like it more in conjunction with HR springs and cup dampers. I have bought brand new springs :smile:
 
Ah ok, my buddy just sold his to somebody in the Czech Republic around the time you've swapped yours. That's why I thought it was you.
 
Since my car is lowered on HR springs, original droplinks were too short and pulling the swaybar up even at ride height. With longer droplinks swaybar angle is similar to original when not lowered if it makes sense. Now front is working "more", so better mechanical grip
It doesn’t make sense any sense at all to be honest.
Work/load will not be affected by the length of the links unless they are massively different lengths.
 
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But the load in the bar won't change unless the links are differing lengths side to side like I said above....... or are you thinking that the pressure from the bushes is adding something meaningful to the bar?
 
Lowering the car will change the preload with standard links I don't know if in any meaningful way though, I've ordered some adjustable ones to try on mine just out of curiosity,the original are due a change anyway.
 
I agree with RSRowe here, roll bar preload occurs when the cars sat at its static ride height, but different length links on either side mean the bar ends up with force applied whilst the car is static. There is some good videos about how to fit adjustable length links to avoid creating preload, if you don't take care when fitting them you'd probably be better off with non adjustable links to avoid that.

What often gets confused is roll bar preload, and what happens when the angle of the roll bar and link move away from 90 degrees or perpendicular. They are two separate things.

The spring rate of the bar starts to change when the angle between the bar and the link changes, with it generally increasing as that angle goes from 90 towards 0.

The reality is there is a fairly wide window considered to be about 20 degrees in either direction that everything should work just fine, and if you step outside of that your more likely to have interference problems with the bar or links hitting other parts of the car than having to worry about the result of the geometry change.

Hence why as RSRowe has said it needs to be miles out before your going to affect the way the suspension works in any significant way.
 
I dont think there was a preload before, links were original, non adjustable. Dunno what exactly made the difference, but I suppose it was the angle difference from horizontal plane. I have links set to 320mm now, originals are like 280? Dont remember. And tbh I am very sensitive to ANY changes.