Steves Megane conversion build - She's finally running (VIDEO inside)

[litchy]

I'm just going to fit the Megane radiator, as i'm using the original intercooler as is the rad would've needed to be moved over a bit anyway so could aswell fit the Megane radiator while i'm at it.i also had to loose A/C because the downpipe hit a little pot, wonder if the pot isn't there on UK Clio's as i've seen 225 conversions retaining A/C, could you make me a pic when the engines out?Also i unbolted the wishbones and pulled the uprights outwards so i could remove the shaftsgoing to do wiring and immobiliser tomorrow so hopefully be able to start it in the afternoon

Yep, the issue of cooling needs a lot of thought. I'm still dealing with it four years on. It's a combination of issues. First the size of rad. Meg won't fit due to subframe. When you compare the size it's about 3+ litres of water in difference. Then there's issues around the flow. Heat easily traps due to the design of the pipes. Also aircon covering the rad. Then there's issues around heat diserpation. The list goes on but be careful cause on scan gauge I've seen 110 deg when ambient temps are high. I think I've solved some of the issues and made significant in rodes into others. Ultimately, the water pipe work design is wrong for the Clio.

 

[Tutuur]

The megane radiator will fit if you make it fit though

 

[litchy]

The megane radiator will fit if you make it fit though

The problem is it will have to sit quite low beyond the subframe because you can't go higher due to the slam panel, which is an accident waiting to happen.

 

[Tutuur]

mountings will be different anyway so i'll just cut the slam panel

 

[litchy]

mountings will be different anyway so i'll just cut the slam panel

Thats what I was planning as it will sit dangerously low if you don't. If your cars lowered, leaves your rad very exposed otherwise.

Not sure it will work anyway because of the locking mechanism is in the way....

 

[Big4244]

I spaced the front subframe maybe 15mm down where it meets the front chassis l gas and got the Meg rad to fit, it just pushes on the bottom of the plastic so not anywhere near low enough to worry unless you've worn your bumper away

 

[litchy]

I spaced the front subframe maybe 15mm down where it meets the front chassis l gas and got the Meg rad to fit, it just pushes on the bottom of the plastic so not anywhere near low enough to worry unless you've worn your bumper away

Ok, that's good to know, will have a go this week.

 

[Stephenvenning]

UPDATE:

After a few days hard graft practically doing all the work on my own, the engine is out! Wasn't too tricky, the hardest part was removing the drive shafts. For that I undone all the droplinks, took the calliper off and the brake line mounting bracket, undone the lower balljoint, track rod arms undone. Now I unclipped the ABS sensor from under the wheel arch liner, the 3 top mount bolts were then removed. The whole suspension strut and hub now can be lowered, I then pryed the drive shafts out of the gearbox with a crowbar from underneath. The hubs will now be stripped and cleaned and also a snapped suspension spring will be replaced with lowering springs. Two drop links will need to be ordered as the bolts had seized solid so had to be cut off, also Ive noticed the inner drive shaft gaitor has split so will need to be replaced or if I cat find a proper gaitor Ill get a new drive shaft.

Anyway once the driveshafts were removed it was really straight forward, just disconnect the loom, gearbox linkage, clutch line, exhaust manifold and engine mounts and she could be hoisted out of the bay.

Ill now clean up the engine bay and adress some rust thats appearing on the front chassis rails and then Ill get the new engine bolted in.






















And the standard "Hey look no engine" :lol:




Thanks

 

[Chris]

Bravo doing that on your own!

 

[Stephenvenning]

UPDATE:

With the engine out it became apparent that the subframes and front chassis member needed some attention. They were disgustingly dirty with caked on grease and dust, they had to have some attention. I also noticed that on the front chassis member there was rust starting to appear probably due to to water sitting there between the member and sump guard. Anyway I needed to take the subframe off anyway in order to replace my steering rack so in the end I removed the entire subframe and chassis member and will in turn shot blast them and paint them, I may also take this opportunity to replace all the bushes with powerflex ones.

As most of the engine bay hadn't been touched since it left the factory in 2007, the engine bay was filthy and I couldnt let it stay like this especially when so much attention has been spent on the engine. Therefore today I set about giving it a thorough clean. Starting with auto glym engine degreaser and a detailing brush I aggitated all the dirt, this was then jet washed off being extra careful around the wiring loom. It was then shampooed with my wash mitt and then washed again, followed by paint correction on the parts you will see and then a final wax using collinite 476s. Looks sparkly now and is in fact the cleanest part of the car at the moment :lol:

Some pictures of half a clio :lol:





















Thanks

 

[Pav]

haha..finally we know your face :-p
cool job mate..not long to go now i bet..

 

[Chris]

Great improvement dude!

 

[Stephenvenning]

Thanks guys hopefully will be done in around 2 months

 

[krash67]

Just a word of caution, be careful with the bottom suspension arm balljoint (the one that goes into the hub carrier bottom) with the threads (you damage this and you need a full bottom strut ) and the rubber boot, the same if you damage it . I would put the nut back on. There a metric fine thread, and not common from your everyday parts shop!.

Would poly bush the bottom arms and the ARB whilst you have this all in bits.

 

[Stephenvenning]

Just a word of caution, be careful with the bottom suspension arm balljoint (the one that goes into the hub carrier bottom) with the threads (you damage this and you need a full bottom strut ) and the rubber boot, the same if you damage it . I would put the nut back on. There a metric fine thread, and not common from your everyday parts shop!.

Would poly bush the bottom arms and the ARB whilst you have this all in bits.

i will do mate, I've got loads of die nuts in every possible thread size, I'll be running these down all the threads before re assembly

 

[litchy]

Don't forget my cover for my pump mate....

 

[Stephenvenning]

Don't forget my cover for my pump mate....

I havent, nearly finished, just need to wait to I go back to work to be able to finish it

 

[litchy]

Thank you.

 

[JCjack]

Love this thread and your attention to detail. Looking forward to seeing it finished!

 

[Tutuur]

You won't regret it mate, just drove my first few 100km's today, bog standard, old, 100k+ engine. Spins up the front wheel till third on crappy winter tyres and wet tarmac.

can't believe people ask if someone misses the high revving of the original engine, guess they never been in a converted one!