Oil Additive

Rockshow

Gold Member
popped into my local motor factor at the weekend and I thought I put some fuel system cleaner into my R27 as I've no idea if the previous owner had ever done or when it was last done, and having posted before that I am quite surprised at how tappy these engines are, Slick 50 do a 750ml oil additive which you add to the current oil (being careful not to overfill!) to give additional protection. Anyone seen this before? And if so, any good? I don't expect it to quieten down the tapped nature of the engine, but every little helps!!

Scott
 
I have always used the best oil available (typically Mobil1 for most of my previous cars). The money the oil majors spend on R&D is immense and I cannot believe Slick 50s boffins have been able to create something missed by the large oil companies. I think Slick 50 is nothing more than snake oil but I could be wrong... I had an Evo 5 years ago that was tappety so changed the grade of oil from fully synthetic Mobil1 to a very slightly thicker one (Magnatec which I think was a semi-synthetic) and it quietened down. Not sure if there is a similar trick with F4R engines as I am too new to these but I am sure somebody experienced will be along shortly
 
When was your oil/filter last changed and what oil did they use? - should stick with genuine wherever possible, the ELF 5w-40 stuff isn't that expensive nor is a genuine oil filter. Not sure I'd want to be adding anything to oil myself, it's already got cleaning additives, stabilizers and other things in it to keep things running smoothly.

If the engine sounds excessively tappy it might be worth having the valve clearances checked/adjusted? I'm not sure how on these engines but I know on the Honda VTEC engines the gap starts to widen with high miles/age and having them re-adjusted makes the world of difference as it brings the gap back to within specs. That's IF they're out, they might not be. How loudly is it tapping? Can you perhaps get a video up? Bear in mind a cold start will sound noisier than an engine that's warm and been running for a while.
 
I went to seminar many years ago at Fuch's and the chemist presenting went out of his way to point out that modern oils contain all sorts of chemicals to prevent anything other than the lubricant staying in contact with bearing surfaces i.e. the modern oil will prevent the 'aftermarket additive' adhering to the bearing surfaces - not sure if this still stands true (I'm guessing it does)

The moral of the story is to buy the best oil you can afford - my choice is an Ester based Synthetic (Fuchs Titan race Pro) rather than one of the so called 'synthetic' (hydrocracked) options