My First Renault - Clio 197 Weekend/Track Toy Project

How simple was it to do the sump gasket? Needed to do mine for a while and I think I'm going to drop my oil after my next trackday so I'll do the sump then!

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How simple was it to do the sump gasket? Needed to do mine for a while and I think I'm going to drop my oil after my next trackday so I'll do the sump then!

Funny you should mention that I think it's the one thing that's gone wrong. I've just put fresh oil in and a new filter and started the car up for the first time. Engine didn't explode so the timing must be OK, but I think I now have a new oil leak from the sump in a different place and worse than before. I can't be sure though as it's right under the filter and taking that off spilled a lot of oil down the front of the block, so I'm gonna leave it overnight and see how much has leaked tomorrow.

Actually getting the sump off and back on isn't that hard. It's easier if you have the bumper off so you can drop the radiator subframe mount and the subframe brace, but i think it would be doable without doing that. You ideally need a 1/4 drive torque wrench, E8 star socket, and some 1/4 inch extension bars, some of the bolts are really deep inside a long tube (gearbox end, 4 of them). As for stopping it leaking, well I think I should have bit the bullet and got a new rubber gasket and not bothered with the red RTV silicone. I don't think you can really do it with Silicone alone as the gasket sits in a recessed channel (you can see in my pics) it's not two flat pieces of metal butting up against each other so you'd need to fill that channel with silicone and you'd need loads. The hardest bit is keeping the mounting face of the engine block clean while you fit the sump with new gasket because there's constantly oil running down from inside the crank case.
 
Funny you should mention that I think it's the one thing that's gone wrong. I've just put fresh oil in and a new filter and started the car up for the first time. Engine didn't explode so the timing must be OK, but I think I now have a new oil leak from the sump in a different place and worse than before. I can't be sure though as it's right under the filter and taking that off spilled a lot of oil down the front of the block, so I'm gonna leave it overnight and see how much has leaked tomorrow.

Actually getting the sump off and back on isn't that hard. It's easier if you have the bumper off so you can drop the radiator subframe mount and the subframe brace, but i think it would be doable without doing that. You ideally need a 1/4 drive torque wrench, E8 star socket, and some 1/4 inch extension bars, some of the bolts are really deep inside a long tube (gearbox end, 4 of them). As for stopping it leaking, well I think I should have bit the bullet and got a new rubber gasket and not bothered with the red RTV silicone. I don't think you can really do it with Silicone alone as the gasket sits in a recessed channel (you can see in my pics) it's not two flat pieces of metal butting up against each other so you'd need to fill that channel with silicone and you'd need loads. The hardest bit is keeping the mounting face of the engine block clean while you fit the sump with new gasket because there's constantly oil running down from inside the crank case.
That's good to hear that it hasn't gone bang! [emoji23][emoji23]

Should be even easier on mine! I have cut the legs off of my rad support so it should be a case of getting straight to the bolts, maybe the lower brace to remove?

Yeah I'd buy a new rubber gasket for it! Luckily I've got all the star sockets, and a 3/8's to 1/4" adapter for my 3/8 torque wrench [emoji23]

Definitely think I'll give it a go. Thanks for the heads up on the oil dropping from the crank the whole time!

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Another update: Re-filled all of the fluids tonight. Couple of things/tips which others may find useful.

Refilling coolant, bleed screws for the coolant system can be found here...

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...and here...

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Refilling gearbox oil is done via this hole which has a white nylon cap and black rubber washer, both of which should be replaced after refilling...

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I had a funnel with a bendy attachment bit on the end to stuff into the filling hole. You fill this up until it starts to dribble out of the filling hole. However, I didn't realise that my bendy attachment had made a really good seal in the hole. By the time I emptied the 3rd Liter of oil into this I knew something was wrong (expected it to take about 2.5 ish). When I pulled the bendy spout out it pissed a load of oil all over the place. To add insult to injury gearbox oil absolutely reeks, so now everything in my garage smells horrible.

I replaced my reverse light switch on the gearbox too, so now I have working reverse lights :smiley:

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I also refilled the engine oil and replaced the oil filter. That thing was on REALLY tight. I had to go the ghetto route of bodging a screwdriver through the filter to get enough leverage to unscrew it, but it wasn't enough. The screwdriver was just bending. So I smashed a chisel through it, but I couldn't get enough leverage on it. So then, I stuck a steel punch through and got a piece of scaffold tube on the end of that and just about managed to get it off.

Carnage.

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If you want to know just how tight the filter was, this might give you a bit of an idea...

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That was straight before I started.
 
Sorry, what now? Is that a weight saving measure or something? That beam is mean't to spread collision forces in a crash, I thought they were pretty important.
Seen quite a few people doing the same thing as the cup cars do it too!

It's an easy way of getting the rusty bits off if and like you say, saves a fair chunk of weight to be fair

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Suppose it makes sense, but the cup cars have a full rollcage. I'd like to see someone fabricate a tubular aluminium replacement, that would be neat :smiley:

EDIT: Added to "reasons to learn tig welding"
 
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Quick note on the subject of Oil Sump Gasket replacement based on my recent experience; don't reuse an old gasket... probably obvious. Don't bother with silicone like Red RTV. Don't bother with a combination of old/new gasket + Red RTV. You also don't need to pay £25+ to get it from KamRacing, RPD or your local Renault Dealership. The Febi Bilstein part number which is the same as the OE one is 21741. I picked one up from Amazon for about £15 even though Amazon's website warned me that this wouldn't fit my car (it does).

Link for the lazy -> https://lmgtfy.com/?q=febi+bilstein+21741

The other issue with silicone is that when it fails or when you next need to get the sump off you've got to spend an hour carefully picking every last crumb of the stuff off the slightly textured surface of the sump which is a pain in the ass.

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Attempt #2, new Febi Bilstein gasket.

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No leaks so far, but will check again after I've ran the car for longer.
 
Took the car out for a spin tonight. No signs of any major fluid leaks which is good. Coolant needed topping up a bit. Felt a bit lumpy and took a while to warm up, but it's been sat for a while now. Everything is back together and all the work on servicing the car is now finished! :smiley:

Service/Parts/Mods So far...
  • Coolant flush with STP rad flush, re-filled with OE Renault Glaceol RX Type-D Coolant
  • Brake Fluid Changed for Motul RBF600
  • Various broken bulbs replaced.
  • Indicator bulbs de-tango'd with Osram Diadem Chrome Ambers
  • PowerFlex PFF60-525 Gearbox Mount
  • BiggRed Brembo Caliper Seal Kit Front
  • BiggRed Brembo Caliper Piston
  • Grams Rear TRW Caliper Seal Kit
  • Grams Rear TRW Caliper Pistons
  • Rear torsion beam fixed brake lines replaced.
  • Acid wheel stripping
  • 2 x Aptany RA301 Ditch Finder Tyres (spares)
  • 4 x Federal RS595-PRO Semi Slick Tyres
  • Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 Graphite 17x8 Wheels
  • Goodridge Phantom Stainless Brake Line Kit
  • Stainless Brake Disc Screws
  • New Washer Pump
  • Radiator Mount Subframe
  • ProScam ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter
  • Google Nexus 7 Tablet (to be mounted in dash)
  • OE Front Damper Lower Bolt + Nut Kit
  • OE Front Suspension Top Mounts
  • OE Cup Front Dampers
  • OE Cambelt, crank pulley bolt, tensioners, rollers etc.
  • OE Aux belt and tensioner.
  • Febi Bilstein Oil Sump Gasket
  • OE Renault Oil Filter
  • Elf 5w40 Engine Oil Change
  • Fuchs Titan Sintofluid Gearbox oil changed.
  • OE NGK Spark Plugs
  • Watfields Precision Engineering Custom Stud Conversion Kit
  • Gearbox Reverse Switch PN 8200177718
Total spent so far on parts, tools, tyre fitting, consumables, fluids, paint etc. etc. + the car (£2800), 12 months Tax (£300) and insurance (~£350) is about £7250.

Re-assembled, cleaned and sort of polished...

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Centre caps fitted...

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I bought a bunch of vinyl decals which I'm still deciding on how to place if at all. Not sure if this would look crap or not.

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Good go hear. It's mad how tight the mounts can be on the box.

Make sure you tightened the cam to the right torque spec
 
Not much to update. Shitting Coronavirus be damned! Becoming increasingly difficult to get parts delivered. I took a drive up to GSM Performance at the weekend prior to the lockdown to try out some seats in their showroom; should have rang ahead as it's closed until further notice :worried:

Waiting on my "Kill All Wipers" rear wiper delete kit still and more Glacier White paint for the interior. I have a lot of weight figures for various interior parts which I will share soon.
 
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Interior Component Weights

Back Seats18.1Kg
Isofix Bar Rear3Kg
Boot carpet, parcel shelf and tools7.7Kg
Rear Quarter Panel Trims (Both Sides)3.4Kg
Misc Rear Trim, Rear Speakers3.5Kg
Other Random Trim1.5Kg
Rear Seatbelt Reels and Brackets2.7Kg
Drivers Seat (Std. Fabric)26Kg
Passenger Sear (Std. Fabric)23.6Kg
Gearstick / Handbrake Surround1.7Kg
Drivers Door Card (without speaker)3.6Kg
Passenger Door Panel (without speaker) (estimate, still fitted)3.4Kg
TOTAL98.2

Carpets and floor padding also came out along with some of the sound deadening sheets. The carpets and foam underlay are very light, not sure if this is a Cup feature. The speakers are also incredibly light weight; again I don't know if this is a Cup feature. I haven't yet taken off the passenger side door panel, so I've guessed the weight based on it having less electric window switches. Obviously mounts, seats and harnesses need to go back in which will probably add about 50Kg back. Also lightweight replacement panels, e.g. door cards etc also need to go in. These are about 1-1.5Kg each.