So, basically, if a dyno' read 100WHP and thinks there is a 20% loss through the transmission, it will give a figure of 120BHP @ Flywheel.
A set of cams won't wear out, so they should be good for the life of the engine.
Idle, low rpm driving etc will all depend on how aggressive the cam profile is.
Ranging from a standard idle to lumpy as hell. But the more aggressive you go generally gets bigger results. But you will sacrifice things like steady idle etc.
Some really aggressive profiles require different pistons due to the amount of valve lift and duration produced. But then we are talking full on race spec.
Math correction
100BHP @ wheel with the transmission absorbing 20% of engine power would be a 25bhp loss through the transmission, so power at fly would be 125bhp
General rule is 15% for front wheel drive and 20% only for rear wheel drive.
Aren't we all just eggheads?
I heard from a friend of a friend of an uncle that if you remove the cams completely, drill a 24.6mm diameter hole in the airbox, and run a 0-30W oil then you'll see a gain of around 55bhp with a nice and smooth tick over, worth exploring??
I heard from a friend of a friend of an uncle that if you remove the cams completely, drill a 24.6mm diameter hole in the airbox, and run a 0-30W oil then you'll see a gain of around 55bhp with a nice and smooth tick over, worth exploring??
Math correction
100BHP @ wheel with the transmission absorbing 20% of engine power would be a 25bhp loss through the transmission, so power at fly would be 125bhp
It made the point though didn't it!?!
yeah, that too, assuming that your reverse multiplyer of the con rod bore is in line with the exit cyclone of the aircon unit.
Lol, worth pointing out tho that you can actually get a vvt delete kit for the f4r, whats everyones opinion on one of those?
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