LY200 - too loud or blow up again, taking bets!

Sucks that nobody takes on jobs. I'm sure you'll find someone mental enough if you REALLY look though.

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Well the Renault option 'Plan B' is finalised now, and looks like it's fast becoming my Plan A.

Today I priced a brand new engine block and piston set from Renault, only £624 inc VAT. Tbh that's mega cheap and changes the game. It would be then only a case of moving the crank and steel rods assembled across (bearings all King Racing bearings and only done 10k), attach the new pistons as that's just simple wrist pin and insert in to brand new bores. Plus new gasket kit and water pump and belt kit etc, talking probably about £1000 in parts. It'd still be mostly forged just literally swapping back to the OEM piston for daily longevity. On an N/A it's the high revs and so rods and valves you need more than pistons so this should be a pretty bullet proof engine (yes I've said that before lol!).

So to make up for the loss of the extra compression, I'll add some headwork ~circa £500, ITB's £1000... but can sell the Honda stuff for £2000. That's the ITB's, headwork and a good chunk of labour covered.

The Honda engine and box have been paid for so long ago they are long forgotten now, so this approach is almost fixing the car with mods for free* :smiley:



*significant man maths applied :wink:
 
Ah no:worried: nasty update that was but totally understand it.

How are you going to tackle the lack of space at the front for the itbs mate?
 
Well when I was planning ITB's before I was pretty sure I wanted a Pure Motorsport head and the ITB package they are planning to release this year. However, technically I'm down speccing the engine back to OEM pistons and so going from 12.5:1 back to 11.5:1 static CR. So any grand delusions I had on building a "mega power F4R" are now gone, and it's now all about building a good power F4R but crucially one that can actually be used every sodding day!

So with that in mind this means I'm far less concerned about developing the most perfect tract length and shape and will just run what ever I can in the space I have. I'd put the AT Power kit on as it's off the shelf, sure it won't be ideal unless I cut the slam up for more room and that would mean fabricate a new cross bar to hang the lights and rad from etc, but meh quite frankly. Just need a car to work day in day out, make decent power and be reliable.
I've always thought the high static CR I had on these cams was a hindrance in terms of top end power because on pump fuel I just can't dial in enough ignition advance, so I reckon I'll loose some of the big ass midrange I did have, but possbly gain a little up top, the head and bodies would certainly make up a short fall from pistons imo.
The only thing is I forgot you need bonnet pins on ITB's... and don't really want to chop my LY bonnet for obvious reasons. Perhaps get a white fibreglass bonnet, would look B.A with some white spots on the doors :wink:

I'll give the shop a shout today anyway and see if it's Honda or not....
 
Shame to read but totally understand the choice! Would love to see a K20 Clio!

Would've expected a block and pistons from renault would be much more expensive, not bad at all. Does that include piston rings?
 
Juk3sy so it's the Honda then you like, bit ambiguous your post :wink:!

Yeah that includes rings, it's just a single part number from Renault - guy said block, pistons & rings. So IF that is the route I go I'll pop down to order it just to check the diagram etc.
Nothing set either way yet, I just need a quick resolution to it now really.
 
So to recap, in essence, strengthening the bottom end, rods, standard pistons, mild cam, flowed head with matched inlet manifolds would be a practicable "stage 1". Just at that stage of my homework in preparing a parts list ready for a build.
 
Not sure I'd go with the stage 1 - if you're changing rods then you're really looking at bearings etc too. It would also be a monumental waste of money!

If you were thinking as an entry point then just get: Catcam 402's, ARP rod bolts, Ktec mani, plus whatever filter and cat back you want. You'll have 80% of the gains at 20% of the cost.

Rods are gonna set you back best part of £1000 for ones worth fitting, avoid the **** PEC ones, I'd rather just have bolts than those horribly designed pieces of wank.
Head is going to be £500.
Bigger cams than 402 are in my direct experience (certainly combined with the R3 manifold) are going to require a standalone running TPS for load, £1500.
ITB's, £1500
and all that will be what, 220-230bhp. But yeah it'll be awesome and sound the nuts, I'm between a rock and hard place when it comes to tuning now, I almost have to carry on and make it slight OTT because I've got recipts coming out my arse for this car and specifically the engine!!!!!!

If you then stick £600 of forged pistons in, or £2000+ of R3 Evo style solid lifters etc - all you'll do is make it unusable daily - but they would offer the potential for a mega cam (and I'd recommend VVT delete by that point too).
 
Final decision made............no K20 for the Clio. Would be at least a month before the car can hit the shop and then a month+ to do it all, more likely 2 by the time an exhaust mani is made and car mapped. So having been waiting 2 months already just to get the car in, the line has been drawn.

So the F4R I have is being rebuilt into a brand new block and pistons set. Keeping the fancy Arrow rods, plasti gauge the bearings etc and replace with more King Racing items etc if required, new pump/belts/gaskets etc, also the top end will go off to be ported and flowed and of course still got the stainless valves and cams etc - so it'll be what...75% forged engine I guess!

Get that done and mapped and then do the ITB conversion - by then ATP should have released the DBW add-on for their bodies :thumbup1:

So should still be a pretty baller spec Clio and hope to be around 220bhp N/A genuine, also this frees up a couple of K for the R3 Access Tarmac coilovers front and rear which I 'think' I've decided on :thumbup:

What to do with the K20 though....shove it in the back of an MR2 Roadster with a kit from the states....? Get an MR2 from £1000 lol!
Or sell it and hope not to lose too much f'ing money on it.......!
 
bet the wait has been awful..hope it goes well and you can enjoy your car this summer...
 
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yeah exactly, at least this way I'll get to use the car this summer for shows/track - and it's not too shabby an option :wink:

Cheers
 
Advertise the k20 on seloc mate, it will go straight away.

Ah well, bring on the itb'd clio then! How long do you reckon Rich?
 
haha I'm not sure how a cat c Clio helps! As I'd need to get an ECU for a 2nd Clio, along with needing decent exhaust.... little to no change from 10k - plus however much you can get a cat c for!!!

The block needs to come from France from the suppliers, be at least 2 weeks Renault think. Gives me time at least to book the headwork and get the rest of the rebuild items, and I've maybe found somewhere to help on a very nice ITB setup :evil: Not sure if that would be from day 1 or not, possibly. But all of it is going full steam ahead - want this working asap.

Chris no chance mate, I'm getting buried in this thing now!
 
Haha worth a try :wink: I just meant as its cheap.

know your urge too get it sorted now as its been a long time waiting for you to use it properly. I do hate to mention though, from your past history I can just sence that this gets done then something else after it is bound to happen!! You will want more.
 
Ha indeed mate, cursed? ill fated? bloody French? .... Yeah the last one :wink:
It'll be all right this time, I have faith! Years of happy motoring await :chair:
 

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