R20 BTG - Supreme Motorsport Track Car Build

IainMac

Paid Member
Just some finishing touches to come now really. One thing I had bought earlier in the project was this vent mounted gauge holder. With the leg of the roll cage passing down the A-pillar behind the dash, the driver's side air vent doesn't get as much air flow as previously so sacrificing some of it for a gauge wasn't such an issue. I bought this from eBay, which was a 52mm gauge holder for the OEM air vent:

s-l1600.jpg

The eBay advert was somewhat misleading, I thought I was getting the entire vent surround, turns out you only get the 3D printed vent holder to click into the OEM vent. Fitment wasn't great either, it wobbled a bit, so Matt will be securing it in place with some hot melt glue.

With the Mocal 13 row oil cooler I don't anticipate having any oil temperature issues on track, but it would be nice to monitor it nonetheless, so I've gone for this Stack gauge from Demon Tweeks. It's got a few nice touches:

sta_oil-temp-st3509-b.jpg

It has a 7 colour LED which most tend to have, but what is smart about it is you can set low and high ranges and assign an LED colour. I'll be programming it to give me a low oil temperature reading (for example, ambient up to 70c) then I can assign the blue LED to that range. When it's blue, I'll know at a glance that the oil is still cold. I'll then assign a normal operating temperature for track use (for example, 70-105 degrees) and assign it the white LED, then a high temperature range (for example, 105 degrees and upwards) and assign that the red LED. I'll then know at a glance which range I'm in, using the LED colours.

Furthermore, you can also assign a flashing warning so that the red LED blinks rapidly if you exceed your high range by more than 10%. You can also recall the peak reading during a session when you return off track.

There are also a couple of extra features that I won't be using at the moment, but might do in future. There is a data logging output if I ever go down that route, but also two 'ProControl' outputs that you can programme to do pretty much anything with a relay. For example, if you wanted to run an oil cooler fan, you could programme the gauge to send a signal to activate that when you reach a certain threshold. You could have an additional warning LED elsewhere in the cockpit for high oil temperature, and even in extreme cases you could wire it up to kill the ignition (probably more useful with an oil pressure gauge, if you get low oil pressure it could automatically kill the engine). I might not use any of this stuff, but good to know it has the capability.
 

IainMac

Paid Member
Car was up on the ramps yesterday to get the ride height sorted and the geometry measured.

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The front end wasn't too far off, needed more camber dialling in obviously. The rear end was also pretty consistent across the rear beam which is nice to hear. From there we could work out what shims where required to get the desired geometry at the back.

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6 shims required @ £17.50/shim, so a nice £105 order with Pure Motorsport placed.

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IainMac

Paid Member
What camber you opt for in the rear?
I'm going for Cup racer setup initially, which is as close as possible (within reason) to:

Front
Camber = -3 degrees 10 minutes
Castor = +6 degrees 20 minutes
Toe = - 0 degrees 10 minutes

Rear
Camber = - 2 degrees 30 minutes
Castor = N/A
Toe = +0 degrees 10 minutes

Then I'll see how that feels and adjust as necessary.
 
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PITA

Paid Member
I'm going for Cup racer setup initially, which is as close as possible (within reason) to:

Front
Camber = -3 degrees 10 minutes
Castor = +6 degrees 20 minutes
Toe = - 0 degrees 10 minutes

Rear
Camber = - 2 degrees 30 minutes
Castor = N/A
Toe = +0 degrees 10 minutes

Then I'll see how that feels and adjust as necessary.
I’m running very similar geo with corner weighting and it’s awesome! I’m sure you’ll love it
 
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needforspeed

Gold Member
I'm going for Cup racer setup initially, which is as close as possible (within reason) to:

Front
Camber = -3 degrees 10 minutes
Castor = +6 degrees 20 minutes
Toe = - 0 degrees 10 minutes

Rear
Camber = - 2 degrees 30 minutes
Castor = N/A
Toe = +0 degrees 10 minutes

Then I'll see how that feels and adjust as necessary.
Thats the setup Im using and absolutely love it . . .
 
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RSRowe

Paid Member
Such a good stance!
I bet you’re running out of things to buy now?

Keep meaning to buy some shims for the rear of mine. Looks a little odd with 3 degrees on the front and nothing on the rear.
 
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IainMac

Paid Member
Such a good stance!
I bet you’re running out of things to buy now?

Keep meaning to buy some shims for the rear of mine. Looks a little odd with 3 degrees on the front and nothing on the rear.
It's pretty much done, just some wiring to do on the oil temp gauge and the sun strips to fit. The oil temp gauge has been a bit of a faff with senders/adapters/thread size, in concept it's easy but trying to get stuff to fit together is the hassle.
 
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Big Ben

Winner - POTM February 2018
Paid Member
Such a good stance!
I bet you’re running out of things to buy now?

Keep meaning to buy some shims for the rear of mine. Looks a little odd with 3 degrees on the front and nothing on the rear.
I’m happy to be corrected but I’m sure the rear is -1.4° from factory?
 

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