Mike's modified airbox experiment - cold airtastic!

With many thanks to Karl, Twingeekeo, I've got my mitts on a spare airbox to try a little experiment with.

PLAN

To increase cold airflow into the OEM airbox

WHY?

Because it heatsoaks badly, starving the engine of cold, dense air - which the ECU detects and retards the ignition, sapping you of power

HOW?

Part 1: Modify acoustic pipe to act as a 2nd cold air feed from the fog light. Plug vac pipe and remove acoustic flap housing.
Part 2: Heatshield pipework that runs across engine bay
Part 2: Remove restriction in 200 grille and lengthen intake to it.

RESULTS

I expect no more power, just consistent performance by ensuring cold, dense air is available.

Negative

Lose foglights.

PARTS

The aim is to do it as cheaply and as OEM as possible, so no moving batteries/header tanks etc.

Airbox. Use your existing, pick one up from a breakers or £65 for a complete new unit from the dealers.

Part 1: 1 metre of 55-57mm I/D neoprene anti-crush spung ducting (example) and appropriate sized venturi.

Part 2: Heat tape, such as DEI gold.

Part 3: Offcut of ducting and suitable rectangular inlet.

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Part 1: Modifying inlet.

As you can see from the pictures, the inlet itself is a decent size, just points at the wrong angle. Fortunately, the way it is made (glued in) means it can be very easily changed.

Flat screwdriver in joint, hit it and voila! comes off. Dremel off excess and re-glue at desired angle.

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To be continued with ducting 'how to'

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Part 2: TBC

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Part 3: TBC

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Finished and test results: TBC
 
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Jase mentioned to me that someone had tried insulated the inlet pipe that runs across the slam panel / inlet manifold before, without any positive results, might be worth finding out who that was, and exactly what they did / didn't do?
 
im pretty sure that valve isnt there for acoustics reasons, more like like open and close at certain rpm from pressure/ electrical input from ecu and also cold start. ive heard of people of messing with these before and it didnt make no difference or made the car worse.
 
Ah, cheers Ryan. Everything I've researched said it isn't necessary, but I'll look at it some more.

If it fails, I'll call it a good shot and put it back the way it was, hence the spare airbox.
 
I'd dispute that but if you can provide intake temps then I'll happily be proved wrong if someone can provide them.

Purely 'feel', I have no evidence to back this up.

My only measure was at Snetterton, the further I got into a session, the flatter it felt and the slower my entry speed into Esses off the back straight became.

Jimmy said the same of his 200, others have mentioned it too.

As I've said, it's an experiment with a few bits and bobs I have lying around in the garage and a rough theory. If it doesn't work, then I'll say it doesn't. I expect NO gains, just hopefully less negative effects of heat.

What diag software is available to live monitor intake temps. I'm very familiar with VCDS in the VAG world, so I'm not inexperienced. If something is readily available then I'm happy to do tests with both airboxes at Oulton on the 30th.
 
Using just a Scangauge you can see the inlet temps, but you can't log them. They are much higher on the Clio that on my previous car (Puma w/FRP inlet plenum), but I think this has a lot to do with the plenum being on top of the engine. With the Puma the plenum is out front, and never got especially warm, so you got much lower inlet temps.
 
I have just ordered a Garmin OBD jobbie for my sat nav, not sure just what it will log though.

That software looks very smart!
 
There's some very clever shizzle out there. I'll see what Santa brings.

Ideally Renault would offer a software upgrade for my RS Monitor and give me a bit more to look at.
 
That i phone app looks like it does all you need it too, Mike i noticed the hole in the airbox is more oval than round does the elbow line up ok once you swiveled it?

Pete