GW 200 CUP (clubsport->racecar->v2)
- Thread starter LiamP
- Start date
LiamP
Paid Member
Decided to take advantage of the Christmas break and started tackling the loom, got bored of this so took all the callipers off and started a refurb.
The rears looked like they had been in a fire but luckily the insides where clean. Fronts where not too bad but opted to purchase some Renault refurbs from Kam racing and a set of mrpinkpins so that they hopefully stay that way.
Spent some time refurbing and painting the rears which other than the damn circlips was quite satisfying. Rear brake lines don’t look great so sent a message to supreme to see if they can make me up a set of braided lines (wish I had just bought the 6 line set) Bleeding was tricky, 20psi through the eezibleeder is just not enough to bleed these cars. The best method I found was to keep the bleeder attached to stop the tank running dry and with the engine running a helper to pump the pedal. One angry wife, 1.5lts of 660 fluid and the brakes feel good although I might have some air left in the ABS.
Bad news is that my OS lower swivel is completely fucked, so bad that the disk can be moved with my hand. Trying to convince NAD to have a go as I really don’t fancy the pain of doing it.
Finally created an Instagram, I think I am following most of you already.
www.instagram.com
I now have another daily so things will probably go a lot more racecar this year…
The rears looked like they had been in a fire but luckily the insides where clean. Fronts where not too bad but opted to purchase some Renault refurbs from Kam racing and a set of mrpinkpins so that they hopefully stay that way.
Spent some time refurbing and painting the rears which other than the damn circlips was quite satisfying. Rear brake lines don’t look great so sent a message to supreme to see if they can make me up a set of braided lines (wish I had just bought the 6 line set) Bleeding was tricky, 20psi through the eezibleeder is just not enough to bleed these cars. The best method I found was to keep the bleeder attached to stop the tank running dry and with the engine running a helper to pump the pedal. One angry wife, 1.5lts of 660 fluid and the brakes feel good although I might have some air left in the ABS.
Bad news is that my OS lower swivel is completely fucked, so bad that the disk can be moved with my hand. Trying to convince NAD to have a go as I really don’t fancy the pain of doing it.
Finally created an Instagram, I think I am following most of you already.
Liam James Pauling (@200_cup) • Instagram photos and videos
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suj
Paid Member
Get yourself a pressure bleeder Liam, best money I spent (Adam Thomas then the Burrell's got one too), I got a Sealey VS820, I set it to 30PSI and it never runs dry and never needed anyone to press the pedal.
Good work on the refurb, my swivel was also fooked, the amount of play was comical (and scary).
Good work on the refurb, my swivel was also fooked, the amount of play was comical (and scary).
PITA
Paid Member
As @suj says get a pressure bleeder, excellent piece of kit!
The 6 line braided hoses aren’t really necessary as most of the line your replacing is solid pipe and the short section by the caliper is actually braided already!
Good job on the Brembos, they look great. I’d recommend some pink pins for them!
The 6 line braided hoses aren’t really necessary as most of the line your replacing is solid pipe and the short section by the caliper is actually braided already!
Good job on the Brembos, they look great. I’d recommend some pink pins for them!
burrellbloke
Paid Member
LiamP
Paid Member
That looks like the bleeder I should have bought, tempting although the amount of tools I have had to buy for this car is getting comical.
Yeah the amount of play is scary and now explains the way the car drives on the road and probably why the handling was so hairy on the fast corners on my last track day.
LiamP
Paid Member
Paint has flaked off the solid pipe and looks a bit tired, probably overkill to replace but I will see what the price is.
The fronts are new refurbs from Renault / Kamracing and already got pink pins in them
The idea of hitting the OEM pins with a hammer in new callipers scares me!
suj
Paid Member
Mate that's cars for you, I have tools for changing an E38 viscous fan for example haha, if you need one again as the gang said the Sealey is spot on and cap fits Clio absolutely perfectly!
Yeah exactly same as mine, it was progressively getting worse until it was so dangerous turning I was genuinely scared to drive the car!
Glad you found it and should be fixed soon!
burrellbloke
Paid Member
LiamP
Paid Member
I am sure smashing kerbs on track days has nothing to do with the swivel joint needing to be replaced.
That is exactly why I am looking to go for @Raptor6767 uprated joints, just trying to decide if it’s worth doing all 3
Anyone got any advice on this and/or know if the uprated ones @R27WTF / @APM supply are the same?
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PITA
Paid Member
I replaced all 6 with Rene’s ball joints, the quality is spot on. I’m pretty sure @R27WTF keeps them in stockThat is exactly why I am looking to go for @Raptor6767 uprated joints, just trying to decide if it’s worth doing all 3
Anyone got any advice on this and/or know if the uprated ones @R27WTF / @APM supply are the same?
Raptor6767
Gold Member
I always recommend replacing (if the budget permits of course) at least the hub ball joints on the both sides.That is exactly why I am looking to go for @Raptor6767 uprated joints, just trying to decide if it’s worth doing all 3
Anyone got any advice on this and/or know if the uprated ones @R27WTF / @APM supply are the same?
The ones on the wishbone rarely fail. However, if "trashing" the car on trackdays (especially in combination with semi/slicks) I would replace them all, and check the drop links (they're really cheap, £20/piece Meyle Heavy Duty series) and anti-rotation links too (ppl don't usually replace them because they're expensive £40-50/piece).
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suj
Paid Member
As Rene said about the Rotation links, many people neglect these, I have changed them twice in my 5 year ownership (last time they probably didn't need changing, but I am of the mind "whilst there I might as well" when doing suspension).
Raptor6767
Gold Member
I am sure smashing kerbs on track days has nothing to do with the swivel joint needing to be replaced.
And some tracks have really high kerbs, and if you're in "full attack/send mode" you need to be at peace that you'll have to replace the lower ones more often.
suj
Paid Member
LiamP
Paid Member
Oh great, the movement is all in the bottom, doesn't that point to the joint or the ee bracket?
