GW 200 CUP (clubsport->racecar->v2)

The obvious answer is oil pressure but then you would expect the big ends to suffer but they are always in much better condition. I have read that the crank tends to have an imbalance which causes it which makes more sense.
 
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Took the afternoon off last Friday and got the engine in and running. I took the hit and replaced the clutch, I got to the point of putting the old one on before deciding, it just didn’t feel right when torqueing, as if the pressure plate had lost some of its ‘pressure’

I had the engine upside down for a week when replacing the bearings so the tappets had drained resulting in some very scary tappy noises for a few minutes!

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Needed to clear a few errors from the ECU but everything settled down and seems ok with good oil pressure and no leaks or noises. I did a quick compression test and all 4 are bang on 160, to be excepted with the mileage.

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16kg of ballast bolted to the passenger mounts.

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Some front end modifications in progress…

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Other than that nothing exciting to report, two weeks to go.
 
70 laps, 60 litres of fuel and zero issues (on the track).

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I was starting to get nervous about not having tested the engine so booked a very last minute (night before) track day at Combe yesterday. Supposed to be racing here next month and the weather looked good so thought it would be worth the 2hr trip.

The car drove onto the trailer and off which is always a good sign, excuse the state of the front bumper, I have fibreglassed the inside but haven’t finished the filler so it looks terrible although maybe slightly better than the awful ‘speed holes’.

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After the sighting laps I noticed that the idle is playing up, hard to explain but it’s as though the throttle body gets stuck at around 1.4k and won’t settle back down to 800. Stopping and starting the engine fixes it but once it revs over 2.5k it will do it again, I don’t have time to get it on a dyno so I think my only option is to try changing the throttle body as talking to Andy he doesn’t believe anything on the map would cause this. Either that or it could be the PCV valve as I found bits of engine inside when cleaning before putting the engine back in. Once on the track it doesn’t seem to impact anything, I am just concerned that it might get worse or whatever is causing it suddenly fails completely.

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First session went well with only a clutch and brake bleed required to fix the box feeling a bit notchy and the brakes having a slight softness on initial bite. The ABS issues I have been facing since the rebuild have finally been fixed which was what probably causing air in the brake system.

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The engine feels strong, obviously power delivery below 4k is all over the place as to be expected without a proper map but once up to where it belongs the car feels identical to how it was before the crash. No leaks and oil pressure is higher than my original engine at around 5 bar under load with temps staying where they should be. The clutch issue has gone, this is assuming it was the clutch/flywheel as obviously everything to the left of the gearbox has been changed but the engine pulls right up to the max speed I managed ~120mph, the first corner at Combe is just terrifying.

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One thing I didn’t mention in the previous post is that I have moved to using a 1*2 damper, this was to prevent engine damage and reduce the speed of the alternator. Might be too early to say but the 20% reduction in alternator speed seems to have done the job as I didn’t have any ‘LOW BATTERY’ errors yesterday. I have kept the standard tensionor using the same belt length the racers use, which is a ‘VKMV 5PK1080’

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After lunch it decided to hail, not ideal, I went out anyway as I thought it would be a good test for ‘wet weather’, the outcome is that Direzzas are shit, the roof scoop acts like a pressure washer and my T7 blower sometimes doesn’t work. Not ideal but good to find these things out now, the list of things to fix is starting to get very long.

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Track dried quickly, stayed till 5, longest I have lasted on the track for a very long time, chassis just feels great, rotates on the brakes but very controllable, really enjoyed the day.

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Mine used to do the weird 2500 rev thing when starting it from cold, but after it had done the normal sort of 1200rpm cat warm up phase. Was fine when hot, and caused me no bother on track.
 
Mine used to do the weird 2500 rev thing when starting it from cold, but after it had done the normal sort of 1200rpm cat warm up phase. Was fine when hot, and caused me no bother on track.
Hmm, it's weird as mine will do it when hot or cold but triggered by revving over ~2.5k, it's like the TB is stuck open slightly.