Dropping sub frame help.

I have hit a wall. Does anyone have any advice for a spinning thread on the anti rotation link and also a spinning thread on the lower control arm. I first tried following a post on here which doesn't require the sub frame coming of completely but had no success as it would not drop the frame lower enough so went for the complete removal of the subframe but as I said now encountered anothe problem. Is there a way of getting these parts of as the nut has got pretty much to the end of the thread but now the hole thing spins. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks
 
If they’re like link arms there should be a bit of metal just before the rubber boot for the ball joint. Normally they have a flat edge to get a spanner in to lock the thread whilst you undo the nut but I find mole grips work better. Sometimes they have an Alan key or torx at the top of the thread to lock it with as well whilst you undo the nut with a ring spanner. The bottom wishbone should have the same Alan key or torx opening at the top of the thread to lock it with. If it doesn’t use a spare second jack to put pressure on the bottom of the wishbone right under the ball joint and should stop the threads from spinning.
 
If your taking it off the cut through the thread part to release the part its not that hard to do. The link will have a way of holding the thread still while the nut is turned. It will be either a spanner hex at the base of the thread, a torx in the centre at the top of the thread or an Allen key hole at the end of the thread.
upload_2018-11-15_19-10-47.png
upload_2018-11-15_19-13-17.png
 
Brilliant thanks. They do both have the torx opening when I tried holding the nut in place and turning the thread which caused the torx bit to snap in the opening. I'll try getting some mole grips around the metal plate. Yes it is flat surface so if I can't get any grip on there I'll get a jack under.
 
I thought you were changing it anyway then do as said by Zeezal before put the jack under the ball joint head to stop the thread from spinning. Clean the threads with a wire brush before starting use WD40 to lube and work the nut forward and back to stop it getting stuck the torx head is for holding it steady not turning it but most torx sets are like chocolate anyway unlikely you will have a second one to hand if that has given you problems then the forward facing ball joint to the hub will be a problem an impact gun will be better the secret is to keep pressure on the tapers to stop the threaded bit from spinning.
 
I used an impact on the front it and its started dancing round like a brick in a washing machine lol. I'll try a c clamp on that aswell and grab a few pics. Lol I only wanna change the manifold bloody car is built like Optimus prime thanks for all the tips I'll let ya no how I get on tomoro
 
I've done the exhaust manifolds before. I did it on a ramp not sure if you're working on the floor or not but i found that i could still do it by just taking the anti roll bar bush clamps off and unbolting the steering rack from the subframe. Once i'd removed the bolts for the subframe i just left it hanging on the wishbones bushes supported by a stand giving me enough room to get to the starter motor and exhaust manifold to do the job.
 
PhotoEditor_20181115_212026128.jpg I have a ramp. well I unbolted the steering rack removed the bolts from the sub frame and the bottom mount and it only gave me a drop of a few inches so I wasn't able to wiggle the manifold out from the bottom. Unless I missed something the front of the subframe was still connected to lower control arms. I've tried adding a pic to show the bolts I removed
 
Last edited:
Did you unbolt the anti roll bar off the subframe as well? I had to take that off as well to free the subframe to lower it enough. I found it easier to get the manifold bolts from the top rather than underneath as well. Not the clearest image but gives you an idea. The near side wishbone is off only because I was changing it at the same time. I’ve done the manifold twice on this car i didn’t disturb the wishbones at all the first time around. Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • 943A9CEF-F7DC-4E16-9C5A-79D30E78F0F9.jpeg
    943A9CEF-F7DC-4E16-9C5A-79D30E78F0F9.jpeg
    725.9 KB · Views: 41
Ah no I didn't I took the passenger side of as it was easiest to get to then had a change of thought and started removing the lower arm. So both bolts of the wishbone aswell? I've already removed all 9 from the manifold and the separated from the exhaust. Did you unbolt the uj aswell from the foot well??
 
Last edited:
These are the only other things you might have missed. On top of the subframe I unbolted the anti roll bar clamps and I disconnected the top bolts for the subframe mounts on each side. You should be able to see them from the wheel well going into the body of the car.
 

Attachments

  • 0133262D-1DCB-49F8-B5BF-5E9CD5DB70BB.jpeg
    0133262D-1DCB-49F8-B5BF-5E9CD5DB70BB.jpeg
    282.7 KB · Views: 62
  • 70CD4B72-0549-4652-B8A5-12E1AC8A1FBF.jpeg
    70CD4B72-0549-4652-B8A5-12E1AC8A1FBF.jpeg
    19.7 KB · Views: 67
  • 84F8155A-ED70-4EB4-A64B-65182646A274.jpeg
    84F8155A-ED70-4EB4-A64B-65182646A274.jpeg
    541.7 KB · Views: 71
Brilliant thank I believe I missed pics 2 and 3 I'll give that a go tomorrow morning and fingers crossed. All I gotta do then if all goes well is sort the spinning lower a joint and anti rotation bar
 
I got it off and the new one is on just need to put the mainfold bolts in. I'll be honest that was not that easy and wouldn't envy anyone doing it without a lift.zeezal you were spot on thank you, just need to replace the ball joint as it would not stop spinning even jacking it up on it
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zeezal
Be very careful around the heat shield on the starter motor that it has not moved and in danger of touching the positive terminals on the starter. Myself and Antti O had the problem of the starter fuse blowing mine was that I took the shield off and did not check what way it was originally fitted Antti's was that the manifold while fitting had pushed the shield onto the terminal. There is an order to tighten the manifold bolts and a torque. It's just if you mess up with the heat shield it's a lot of hassle to sort out involves removing the starter to adjust the shield as the manifold traps it.
upload_2018-11-18_0-2-42.png
upload_2018-11-18_0-6-25.png
upload_2018-11-18_0-7-12.png
 
Cheers for the tip. I did remove the starter motor shield so I'll check this tomorrow. The manifold did touch the starter motor and when lowering the car (as I hadn't finished the job it did spark so I'll deffo check that. Where is the fuse located? Again thanks for the heads up
 
The battery was disconnected. problem I had was I needed to connect the battery again as I had to get it off the ramp and steering lock was on. I think as I had already lowered the manifold or the threads I thought it was lower enough but must have come into contact with the starter. Do ya rekon o would have blown the starter fuse in this case? Not checked yet but will be later this evening
 
To add I put the heat shield back on after fitting the manifold and it does have clearance I'll check that it's all clear
 
Last edited: