Crank Sprocket Removal - Timing Belt Change

[bigsid]

I'm halfway through replacing my timing belt/aux belt/water pump and the service manual is telling me to remove the crankshaft sprocket (not the aux belt pulley). I just don't seem to be able to get the bloody thing off. It's got a notch out of the sprocket and the shaft for a woodruff key by the look of it, but it's not externally visible so I can't grab it with some vice grips and wiggle it out. I've put a load of penetrating oil all over the sprocket and even made a makeshift removal tool using some flat bar with holes in to screw M4 bolts into the threaded holes on each side of the sprocket, but it just won't budge. I can't get a screwdriver or prybar round the back of it because it is really pressed up against the crank seal, there's maybe a few microns gap.

Is there a special tool I need or can get to help me with this? Do I really need to remove the crank sprocket or can I get by leaving it in place. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Foxspeed]

most engines are key way-less so the pulley has to come off/moved/loosend so the timing tools align correctly i have "read" that there are "some" later engines with keyed crank pulleys but i havent come across any before

 

[bigsid]

Really hard to get a decent photo of this, but the crank does have a key way and I think I can see a woodruff key in the slot inside. This is a 2009 F4R...

 

[Foxspeed]

does look like it...

put the belt on with all the timing tools in place and as long as the belt tension is correct - ie cam pulleys loosen then tighten - 2 turns & see if all aligns spot on

 

[RSRowe]

Mine (07 plate) was keyed so never bothered removing it.

There is another set of instructions for cars with the key. Pretty certain they don't require the pulley to be removed.

 

[Foxspeed]

Mine (07 plate) was keyed so never bothered removing it.

There is another set of instructions for cars with the key. Pretty certain they don't require the pulley to be removed.

more common than i thought!

 

[RSRowe]

I was under the impression they were all floating. Though a few friends also have keyed ones too.

 

[Foxspeed]

I was under the impression they were all floating. Though a few friends also have keyed ones too.

i did know some were keyed but never came across any or knew anyone with one

i suppose it makes the belt change that bit easier

 

[bigsid]

Oh God. I gone and f**ked up, but I'm blaming Amazon. Was just putting everything back together when Amazon came to deliver a parcel. Anyway, took off the timing tools started to rotate the crank by hand and then realized I hadn't fully tightened up the inlet pulley bolt and the pulley was spinning freely on the cam.

After a long session of swearing, I put on my thinking brain and tried to rectify the problem. I've almost got it, and can crank the engine round by hand, but when I went to refit the timing tools it doesn't seem quite right. When the locking pin is in the crank the cam slots should be level below the centre line, but the inlet cam is rotated slighty counter-clockwise, so that you really have to force the locking tool into place. I know this isn't right, it should slot in freely.

Trouble is, I can't seem to adjust it back because it seems to be under tension, probably from the valve springs I assume. I haven't removed the new timing belt yet, but I'm just trying to get my head round this. If I slacken off the inlet bolt and exhaust nut on the timing pulleys, I should be able to adjust the camshaft positions without removing the belt right. As long as the crank is locked and I position them to be level, in-line, below centre line and then re-tighten everything with the pulley locking tool in place that should do it right?

 

[bigsid]

OK, cams adjusted...

 

[Foxspeed]

yeh just loosen with belt on - adjust/fit tool - tighten - 2 turns and tools should re-fit easily

 

[RSRowe]

And make sure to turn it over by hand before you reassemble and definitely before you start it

 

[bigsid]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the help. Got it adjusted and all tightened up. Rotated the crank by hand about a dozen times, seems fine. Went back to refit the locking tool (the horse shoe kind of shape on) in the camshaft ends, and it's still not bang on. You've really got to wiggle it about quite a bit before it goes in. The inlet cam seems to be a tiny amount clockwise compared to the exhaust came when that is level. Is it worth me having another go at adjustment or does that sound acceptable?

 

[RSRowe]

Mine was a little tight when I did it, but I put it down to the locking tool being shite, and not a genuine one

 

[bigsid]

Had another bash tonight, got it better adjusted. Cam setting tool is still a bit tight to get in, but it's definitely better than it was. Cranked engine by hand and all seems OK. Won't know for sure I suppose until it's all back together. Will have to see how it runs, but if it's rough I may just bite the bullet and get a professional to redo it.

 

[bigsid]

IT LIVES!!!!