Clio 200 oil pressure fault

Interested to know if anyone has experienced a similar problem to me......ill do my best to explain.....


Had the oil pressure warning come on and off on a few occasions, so took it to a local independent garage who I know, who basically drained the oil and put new in.

The oil pressure warning light came on and off again on the way home. Took the Clio back the following day, that garage suggested the oils pressure switch was at fault, so this was replaced. On the way to work the following day, the oils pressure warning light came on.

Returned to the garage, they suggested that the oil pump was knackered - so a quote for the job given to me, nearly fainted. On the off chance of some support with the cost, I called Renault UK.

Basically, it turns out my Raider has a 5 year extended warranty, so it's been at Pentagon in Lincoln for the last 3 weeks. I've been given a hire car, so can still get around.

They cannot find the issue. No fault codes are stored. They have it wired up to a laptop apparently to get data when the oil pressure light triggers.

There is nothing more to tell, only they said they don't really know what's wrong with it.

Any help appreciated.
 
Interested to know if anyone has experienced a similar problem to me......ill do my best to explain.....


Had the oil pressure warning come on and off on a few occasions, so took it to a local independent garage who I know, who basically drained the oil and put new in.

The oil pressure warning light came on and off again on the way home. Took the Clio back the following day, that garage suggested the oils pressure switch was at fault, so this was replaced. On the way to work the following day, the oils pressure warning light came on.

Returned to the garage, they suggested that the oil pump was knackered - so a quote for the job given to me, nearly fainted. On the off chance of some support with the cost, I called Renault UK.

Basically, it turns out my Raider has a 5 year extended warranty, so it's been at Pentagon in Lincoln for the last 3 weeks. I've been given a hire car, so can still get around.

They cannot find the issue. No fault codes are stored. They have it wired up to a laptop apparently to get data when the oil pressure light triggers.

There is nothing more to tell, only they said they don't really know what's wrong with it.

Any help appreciated.

Did they ever get to the bottom of this?

As I have a similar issue, randomly comes off and on?


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doesnt anyone actually put a gauge on it to read the true pressure?

I can do that, but it looks like a very tight place to get to?

I'm guessing it's the one left to the oil filter?

Also as intermittent as mine is, would suggest it's not always running at low oil pressure?


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f4r engine isnt known for oil pressure issues the bottom ends are usually bomb proof - but to actually test correctly the pressure should be tested so you get a cold reading and hot reading

intermittent should be an electrical issue - so check for any of the wiring that could be chaffed & causing an earth issue failing that fit a new switch - not that expensive
 
Carried out the pressure test this morning, absolutely fine. Reading what it should.

No need to remove the bumper, just remove the air feed and squeeze your hand down! The old sensor looked very oily. Possibly leaking a little.

New sensor fitted, £8 from euro car parts.

So far so good!!!!


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Carried out the pressure test this morning, absolutely fine. Reading what it should.

No need to remove the bumper, just remove the air feed and squeeze your hand down! The old sensor looked very oily. Possibly leaking a little.

New sensor fitted, £8 from euro car parts.

So far so good!!!!


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Keep us in touch bud. I'd be interested to hear the results of this one..........

Fingers crossed !
 
I have just had to do this, after a fright on the M25 coming on to the M1 with the oil pressure light coming on. I figured that since the engine was not spread all over Luton, it was just the switch.
To add to the comments above, no need to remove the bumper but, not being a gynaecologist, there was no way it could be done from the top. Firstly, and I don't have big hands, it was a hard reach just to unplug the connector, but even though I could manage to get a socket on from the top direction, there was no possibility to move it due to pipes and all sorts being in the way. Removing the front under tray and getting the socket up from underneath allowed just enough movement to loosen the old switch, which then could be turned from above, just! putting the new on back in was just the same, fiddle about until finding the hole screw down finger tight, then tighten from the bottom.
Couple of points to note, the replacement from GSF is 21AF not the 22AF of the original. It is worth checking you have the right tools. Secondly, disconnect the battery first as you are right by the alternator and you don't need to be melting your spanners!
 
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Gynaecologist reference made me chuckle, reminds me of one of the best insults I'd heard on a rugby pitch. Our second row was a doctor and mid-game went over to tend to an injured member of the opposition. As he's checking him out, one of our fat props wanders over and says to the opposing player on the floor 'you're in good hands mate, he's a gynaecologist, he's used to looking at cunts' and walked off. :laughing: