Clio 197 buying guide

[Tomas Link]

Hi, I noticed there were a few threads on the forum advising people on how to buy 197s. So I created this thread to bring the information together as I currently find myself in a position writing a list for a friend to go and check a 197, that he wishes to buy. So here it is.

Things to Check:

So straight away the engine SHOULD be cold, hopefully the seller doesn’t attempt to warm it up before you arrive.

1.Pop the hood make sure the engine is cold.

2. Check the service book, should have been serviced at least every 12K. Should be FULL. (high)

3.Check MOT history any advisories? Is it FULL? (medium)

5. ONLY turn the ignition on, after doing this check EVERY button in the car click EVERYTHING make sure it works clios have questionable electrics. Especially the window wipers they are PRONE to FAIL. Make sure all the bulbs work from outside the car as they are difficult to fix. (medium)

6. On the end of the right-hand indicator stalk there are two little buttons. These flick through the dash, Check the mileage is correct, check there’s a message that says ‘no message to display’ this means theres no errors. (low)

7. Right so driving TRY check third and fourth gear up and down shifts are the main issue usually but sometimes second gear to, make sure there’s no crunching in the gear box. Be ROUGH with the gear changes intentionally with the engine to see how it feels. But check all the gears slot home cleanly and with no thunks or graunches.(highest)

8. The clutch should be quite STIFF if it isn’t it could be signs of excessive wear. (medium)

9. Also Check passenger/driver seals (between the door and rear window) these are a common fault and the rubber cracks. (medium)

10. CHECK exhaust manifold has not cracked and the flexi pipe has not rotted through. (medium)

11. Also Steering link rods seem prone to wear, though this is cheap to resolve. A clunking noise from the steering can indicate a failing rack. (medium)

12. Drivers and passengers seat bolster, is it worn? (low)

13. If you have a jack take it jack the front tyres up and check the BALL JOINTS they are prone to fail on the clio. (medium)

All the little bits don’t matter as much if the car drives perfectly, use them to weasel the cost down, write down which of these things are there or aren’t there and build a case for the cost of the car using the check list.

MOST IMPORTANTLY don’t act impressed at all by the car in any respect even if you drive it and thinks its amazing keep it quiet.


These are all Clio specific checking points, the generic body check up, oil levels, oil cap checks etc still need to be carried out. Id like to think this list is exhaustive, but if anyone can think of anything I have missed please add it to the thread. Cheers Tom!

 

[Doogle]

- Check for knocking on rear, could be knackered exhaust hangers or if an aftermarket system could be a failed clamp. Likewise, the heat shield on the diffuser can rot leading to a tinny knocking noise.
- Bootlids rust at the bottom of the rear window, Renault have a 12 year anti corrosion warranty so some of the last 197's and 200's are still within time. If its been repainted or had work it wont be covered.
- Rear calipers can stick, if this happens its a sign that the handbrake cables can be corroded and may need to be replaced. Likewise, the rear calipers easily seize. A £5 pair of springs from eBay (search Megane mk2 caliper springs) will help the calipers not to seize.
- Rear bearings are built into the discs, if they go its a new set of brake discs so they are a little more expensive and its not worth skimping.
- Rear ABS sensor holders corrode like they are made of cheese. This can cause a tinging noise and could be a sign the holder is warping. Renault dont sell the holders on their own and a new stub axle is £250+.
- Sest bolsters wear, especially Recaro's. The covers are not cheap! Steve Murr on here is one of the best guys to speak to about replacements.
- Steering wheel's peel as the leather is shite.
- Glovebox lids often dont fit properly as the pivots wear. Not a lot can be done to cure it.
- Wiper linkages are common, when the engine isnt on but ignition is try activating the wipers. If they dont move, move slowly or judder its a sign the linkage bearings are shot and one or both sides are seizing or seized. For a new item its £150. If left it'll burn out the wiper motor as well.
- Air con condensors will be shot on the earlier cars, these are around £100 for a genuine item.
- Knocking on the front can be such a variety of things. This could be the swivel joints, ball joints, anti rotation links, anti roll bar links or commonly the topmounts which perish and crack.
- Water in the interior can be a sign the scuttle tray at the bottom of the windscreen is blocked. They often block so have a check, you will find water in the passenger footwell as the cabin filter can be accessed from this side.
- Oil changes should be common. If used for track they should be more often than the 12k.
- Cambelts need doing every 72k or 5 years. Buy a genuine kit from Renault at a few hundred. Dephasers don't fail like 172/182 models but for less than £100 you can replace it for peace of mind. Get this done at a trusted Renault garage as they will need a cam locking kit.
- Manual heating controls fail with the fan doing weird things, this is often the final stage resistor which is cheap to buy but a bit tricky to fit.
- Thermostats fail for a passtime. They are 75 degree and cheap enough from Renault. Changing is relatively easy as well. On the dash, the gauge should get close to the 3rd line. If its sat on the 2nd line its knackered and it needs replacing.
- When getting hot sat such as sat traffic in the summer the fan should kick in. If it doesnt it could be a relay or the fan itself.

I may have covered some bits Tom has mentioned so sorry for the repetition!