Chaning my own Timing Belt

Brunoandrade98

Paid Member
Hi all,

Because I was quoted a ridiculous amount for a Timing Belt and Water Pump for my 197, I'm now looking at doing it myself. I can already predict that it would be frustrating at some stages, but I'd save a lot of money, and it would probably feel very rewarding, after it's done. It would also be great if I could do it again in the future.

I would do it with my father's help, but neither of us have done such a job, yet (we have pulled and swapped an engine on another Clio of mine, however).

Is this something feasible for your average DIYer, or should I not touch it with a barge pole?

I have access to the original Workshop Manuals, which are also available on the forum, here, but I'd still like to go over some things:
  • Am I right in saying the engine *must* come out?
  • What things to keep in mind?
  • What absolutely NOT to do?

Regarding tools, I have a list of genuine tools I'll need for the job, which I "stole" from a post on this forum:
  • Mot. 1054 - 0000105400 - (Crank Timing Pin)
  • Mot. 1801 - 7711381801 - (Camshaft Locking Tool)
  • Mot. 1509-09 - 0000150901 - (Adapter for above tool)
  • Mot. 1496 - 0000149600 - (Camshaft Timing Tool)
One of the risks of replacing a Timing Belt, is that the timing is incorrect after installing, and that the pistons would hit the valves upon cranking the engine. Would these tools eliminate that risk completely?
Also, are the genuine tools a must, or are there aftermarket tools that are exactly the same? Only asking as they are likely cheaper, and easier to find, due to a current shortage of Renault parts.


Thanks in advance.
 
Genuine tools are needed if you want to do it properly.

Engine doesn’t need to come out, the most awkward part is removing the covers and ensuring the tensioner tang is in the block.

Watch a few videos and have a go, if the timing tools doesn’t go back in after turning it over then re time it and try again.

Where are you based?
 
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Genuine tools are needed if you want to do it properly.

Engine doesn’t need to come out, the most awkward part is removing the covers and ensuring the tensioner tang is in the block.

Watch a few videos and have a go, if the timing tools doesn’t go back in after turning it over then re time it and try again.

Where are you based?

Thanks for this.

I have searched, and and found a few videos for the F4R, but for the 172/182 Clios. Nothing for the 197/200 specifically. If you know of any, I'd really appreciate if you could share the link.

Now, regarding the engine not needing to be out...It doesn't look like there's a whole lot of room to work on. Is it a case of just supporting the engine and removing the mount, then?

I'm based in Guernsey, Channel Islands, and mechanic labour tends to be quite expensive.
 
Thanks for this.

I have searched, and and found a few videos for the F4R, but for the 172/182 Clios. Nothing for the 197/200 specifically. If you know of any, I'd really appreciate if you could share the link.

Now, regarding the engine not needing to be out...It doesn't look like there's a whole lot of room to work on. Is it a case of just supporting the engine and removing the mount, then?

I'm based in Guernsey, Channel Islands, and mechanic labour tends to be quite expensive.
Video

It’s not 197/200 specific but the method is exactly the same. Use the torque figures for the Clio and you’ll be golden. Take your time and get the horseshoe sliding easily once the belt tension has been equalised.
 
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Mr. Pita has covered it pretty well.

A genuine timing kit is only really necessary if you’re planning on doing the dephaser/removing the cam pulleys.

You can 100% do the job with the engine in…. There’s plenty of room. I much prefer doing the job on the floor too, as you can use a jack to support the engine
 
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Video

It’s not 197/200 specific but the method is exactly the same. Use the torque figures for the Clio and you’ll be golden. Take your time and get the horseshoe sliding easily once the belt tension has been equalised.

Thank you very much for that. I'll certainly be enjoying that video.

Now, on to find myself a Timing Belt kit, and the genuine tools.

Wish me luck.
 
A genuine timing kit is only really necessary if you’re planning on doing the dephaser/removing the cam pulleys.

When you say "genuine timing kit", do you mean the original timing belt, pulleys and water pump, or the timing tools?

Also, would I be alright supporting the engine with a jack with a rubber pad, on the sump?
 
I mean the timing tools sorry. I have a Sealey kit and have changed a few with no issues.

Yes it’s ok to go off the sump. It’s only really needed for a bit of extra support. The remaining engine mounts do most of the work.
 
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Thank you for your help @RSRowe and @PITA
This may not be my last question, but should I do the dephaser, too? Car is on 59K miles, and as far as the service history goes, it was never done. Car runs well, though.

I've watched the video @PITA sent a few times, now, and getting confident about the work I'll do, although, the only thing it doesn't mention, is the dephaser removal and installation, as that engine doesn't have one, although, I'm assuming it's as easy as removing it and reinstalling it when it comes to the stage where you loosen both camshaft pulleys?
 
Dephaser isn't hard to do, so long as you have the proper locking kit.

I never bothered changing mine as the car ran well. I do have one sat in my toolbox as and when it starts making a noise.
It's done 98k miles on a 2007. I suspect they were revised for the Mk3, and aren't anywhere near as much of an issue as they are on the Mk2
 
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Dephaser isn't hard to do, so long as you have the proper locking kit.

I never bothered changing mine as the car ran well. I do have one sat in my toolbox as and when it starts making a noise.
It's done 98k miles on a 2007. I suspect they were revised for the Mk3, and aren't anywhere near as much of an issue as they are on the Mk2
As far as locking tools go, I managed to get my hands on a brand new, genuine, set for cheap.
If that's the case, I might leave it, then, so I don't create more work for myself.
 
In terms of the dephaser - you treat it the same as a solid pulley as long as it’s locked (which it should be). It has a different torque figure and that’s about it
 

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