Brake & Clutch Bleeding Questions

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Steering' started by Jamz72, Oct 21, 2014.

  1. Jamz72

    Jamz72

    Messages:
    455
    Location:
    Stratford Upon Avon
    Car:
    GW 200
    Hello all! I’ve just bought myself a Visibleed kit with one way valve (link) & some Motul RBF 600 fluid so will be bleeding my system soon (also got myself some gearbox oil but that’s an easier job).

    Now, I know there are a few threads on brake bleeding and a couple on clutch but nothing is in a central place and I still have some unanswered questions.. so my plan is to gather all the information required, do the job and then write up a brake & clutch bleeding ‘How To’ complete with pictures :book:

    I would be grateful if people that have done this before could please look over the steps I have written and answer a few of my queries :smile: Just going to leave this here too.. [MENTION=29]foxspeed[/MENTION]

    Prep
    1. Press and release the brake pedal 15-20 times.
    2. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and remove as much old fluid as possible with a turkey baster or similar.
    3. Top up reservoir with fresh fluid to the ‘max fill’ line.
    4. Replace reservoir cap.
    5. Place a bit of wood under the brake pedal to stop it depressing the entire way.

    Bleeding Brakes
    1. Find the wheel furthest away from the brake master cylinder (rear left) – jack it up, put on axle stands and remove wheel.
    2. Add a bit of fresh fluid to the Visibleed container.
    3. Attach the Visibleed hose to the bleed nipple and loosen the nipple ¼ turn. Are there two nipples - which do I use / do I have to use both?
    4. Press and release the brake pedal multiple times, allowing the old fluid/air to be pushed out followed by some new fluid. This is the one man method and works because the one way valve can’t suck any air into the system when releasing the pedal – correct?
    5. Re-tighten the bleed nipple and empty the excess fluid from the Visibleed container.
    6. Again top up the reservoir with fresh fluid to the ‘max fill’ line.
    7. Repeat steps above for the remaining 3 wheels, ensuring the correct order is followed – starting with the furthest wheel from the master cylinder and finishing with closest (rear left, rear right, front left, front right). Can someone confirm this is the correct order?

    Bleeding Clutch (Slave Cylinder)
    1. Add a bit of fresh fluid to the Visibleed container.
    2. Attach the Visibleed hose to the slave cylinder bleed point, push in metal clip and pull pipe out ~10mm. Is it actually possible to attach a hose to the bleed point because (looking at a picture) it seems very different to the brakes nipples?
    3. Press (all the way down) and release the clutch pedal multiple times, allowing old fluid/air to be pushed out followed by some new fluid. Is this the correct method?
    4. Push bleed pipe back in to seal the system.
    5. Top up the reservoir with fresh fluid to the ‘max fill’ line.
    6. Finished?!

    • At what point is the clutch slave cylinder bled – before the brakes, afterwards or somewhere in between?
    • Should I make sure the engine and ignition are both switched off?
    • Should I leave the handbrake off?

    Cheers guys!
     

  2. Foxspeed

    Foxspeed "the new red baron" Moderator

    Messages:
    15,679
    Location:
    sat behind a laptop over-moderating...
    Car:
    megane trophy 300edc
    I am off out in 2mins....will have a nosy at it tomorrow when I get in but theres a few others on here that can help
     
  3. Jamz72

    Jamz72

    Messages:
    455
    Location:
    Stratford Upon Avon
    Car:
    GW 200
    Cheers mate
     
  4. Foxspeed

    Foxspeed "the new red baron" Moderator

    Messages:
    15,679
    Location:
    sat behind a laptop over-moderating...
    Car:
    megane trophy 300edc
    also worth noting - fronts 2 nipples - bleed one then the other - as far as I am aware there isn't a specific order
    also beneficial to get someone to press hard on the brake pedal and check all the nipples for any leaks
    and best to "service" the brakes first
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014
  5. Jamz72

    Jamz72

    Messages:
    455
    Location:
    Stratford Upon Avon
    Car:
    GW 200
    Cheers mate, much appreciated :smile:

    With regards to the wood under the pedal.. no idea what it's all about but read it in a couple of places so will probably do it just incase.
     
  6. dajones

    dajones

    Messages:
    382
    Location:
    Swansea/Brize Norton
    Car:
    GW RS200 Anthracite pack
    I think the wood is just to prevent damage. With no "pressure" the pedal will move a lot more.
    Probably way off but that's what I think
     
  7. Jamz72

    Jamz72

    Messages:
    455
    Location:
    Stratford Upon Avon
    Car:
    GW 200
    For anyone looking to do this in the future, I encountered problems with my clutch whereby air must have been introduced during bleeding that pumping the pedal nor gravity bleeding could get out. Seems like it can be troublesome as there are lots of posts, especially on Megane forum, about it. I ended up using the Gunson Easybleed pressure bleeding kit which worked an absolute treat and was so much easier that the conventional or one way valve method.

    In summary, pressure bleeding is the way to do it!
     
    Hyde200 likes this.

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