Anyone had a dephaser replaced on the 197

mine has rattlled a couple times now on startup after its been stood for a while so am thinking when i do the cambelt, i might get the dephaser replaced at the same time
 
i had mine done when i had mine cambelt done, it wasnt rattling, just wanted it doing just in case. apart from the price of the unit it didnt cost any extra to fit.
 
Never noticed a rattle on mine - 65K now.

I had my Cambelt done at Diamond Motors in Nottingham at the weekend. I asked Mick before hand whether it was worth getting the dephaser done too and he told me not to bother as they are very reliable.
 
Mines rattled once since I've had it so I will getting it replaced when the Cambelts done in January. It rattled all the time on my Megane without any issues, Renault specialist told me it didn't need replacing but with the Clio I'd prefer peace of mind.
Tends to become more frequent as the weather gets colder.
 
Never noticed a rattle on mine - 65K now.

I had my Cambelt done at Diamond Motors in Nottingham at the weekend. I asked Mick before hand whether it was worth getting the dephaser done too and he told me not to bother as they are very reliable.

I was gonna say this Mick told me too when I had my cambelt done in June.
 
had mine replaced with cambelt. Mechanic didnt charge any extra. rattled on start up hot or cold and decided to play safe and replace it at 90k km. Got it from Karl
 
they are more reliable, the 1.6 engine is the one that has dephaser issues, the specialist that did mine also told me they arent really a common issue on the 2.0l engine, but i have heard one or two going so played it safe
 
Is this rattle a loud rattle on start up?
Mine does this now and again.
I thought it was low on oil but its at the correct level
 
i wouldnt say its loud. but you would definitely notice it. kind of a whurry rattle. lasts all of 1 second probably
 
Is this rattle a loud rattle on start up?
Mine does this now and again.
I thought it was low on oil but its at the correct level
Mine became relatively loud but like Fano said lasted the whole of 1-2 seconds before going back to normal.
Yea Ryan that's what I was told but the guy I dealt with told me unless theres play it's rare they actually fail, just more irritating than anything else.
 
thing is if you leave it be and it does fail. the damage could be either very expensive or require another cambelt change. hence play it safe.
 
Renault quoted 100 quid for a new one so like you said, may as well get it done for peace of mind when I get the can belt done
 
Dephaser pulleys; (Dan@519 will support this) They won't just fail but a word to the wise - you need to be extra careful with the current generation VVC system/dephaser pulley as it's not as simple to diagnose as the older X65 system/pulley units were (8200782671). Typically a "Knock" or "Tapping" at cold start, usually followed by an engine stall, is a dephaser issue BUT it (along with a constant faint audible metallic tap at idle speed) can also be a symptom of the VVC system on the whole being in "defect mode" which see's the pulley still able to do its own thing but the ECU knows no difference (Nomally due to a camshaft position sesnor, camshaft target or circuit wiring fault) so shuts off control.

This is one of the most common misdiagnosis's on the K4M's deployed in the Megane II/Scenic II since 2004 with VVC and if you don't check the system is/is not functioning correctly with CLIP you can find yourself spending out your hard earned cash and still having the original problem. The current N/A and Turbocharged F4R's that employ VVC are not as common (197/200 included) but there are a few starting to crop up now with this cam sensor issue so don't be quick to blame the dephaser without having it correctly diagnosed.

At present Snap-On code readers such as Vantage/Verso/Solus/Etc do not support consultation of the full VVC parameters so are unlikely to tell you what the current "Status" of the VVC is. The only systems that do are CLIP/NXR and AutoLogic (which is as good as dealer level equipment but just as expensive) so take it somewhere that not only knows the cars/engines well but has the correct equipment/knowledge to use it!

Mick
 
along with a constant faint audible metallic tap at idle speed) can also be a symptom of the VVC system on the whole being in "defect mode" which see's the pulley still able to do its own thing but the ECU knows no difference (Nomally due to a camshaft position sesnor, camshaft target or circuit wiring fault) so shuts off control.

This is one of the most common misdiagnosis's on the K4M's deployed in the Megane II/Scenic II since 2004 with VVC and if you don't check the system is/is not functioning correctly with CLIP you can find yourself spending out your hard earned cash and still having the original problem. The current N/A and Turbocharged F4R's that employ VVC are not as common (197/200 included) but there are a few starting to crop up now with this cam sensor issue so don't be quick to blame the dephaser without having it correctly diagnosed.



Mick

Hi Mick, this sounds exactly like the problem with my twingo rs! They have just replaced the water pump under warranty (including belts) due to a 'bearing/wurring' kind of sound when the engine is idling. It still makes the sound but I have not been back. I have been thinking it must be the dephaser pulley but having read your ost I'm having second thoughts.

By the VVC system being in defect mode as you have mentioned, what affects will this have on the car? And how is it solved? I was planning on leaving it till next year (5 year service) and having the belts done including dephaser at a specialists, as I want piece of mind rather than trusting the dealers work. I have no idea if it is the dephaser now as what you said sounds similar (apart from the cutting out)
 
@Keljon - I've no experience with the RSTuner as a product i'm afraid so cannot comment but I believe it has excellent data logging capabilities. The stream is there to be read so I'm Henk can get there with it.

@Markhardy - Effects are (generally) increased fuel consumption and a lack of urgency when you push the "go" pedal flat to the floor which both are "normal" characteristics of a "Go'133". The first thing you need to do is get the car looked at by someone that knows them (Preferably not the dealers) and has more than just a generic code reader in their tool shed (Ideally a scope with at least two channels and the means to use it properly).

Mick
 
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"Effects are (generally) increased fuel consumption and a lack of urgency when you push the "go" pedal flat to the floor" cheeky :glare:

Yeah I know just as the cars still under warranty it went back to them. Shame there's no one close by. It could end up being a trip downsouth
 
Any dealer should be able to check this for you but you tend to find they're only interested in the faults tab.

Tell them to check the turbo/inlet air tab and the normal response is "it doesn't have a turbo"

#face+palm