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Can anyone confirm what wire does what on the sender unit/pump. There's 4 wires on the block conecter, a thick black which is earth, 2 thin wires one reading 5v so guessing this is the fuel gauge, then a thick green wire, this is reading 12v when I turn over the engine, is this the pump wire? If...

Yeah new it was around 200 quid, which I don't mind paying so long as it is the pump that's gone

Only thing out of the ordinary when I lock the car now after trying to start in I've heard either one long beep or 3 short ones not not sure if that's coz I took the battery lead off

Here's a run down of what's happen- 1st time it wouldn't start I'd just finished work, so been left all day, it attempted to fire up then just turned over, still didn't run the next morning, a mate had a quick look, pulled out the big fuses n relays next to the battery, tried it n fire up, so...

Found that last nite but thought it was just the sender, I'll try the voltage tonight, should the pump buzzed everytime the ignition is turn on? If there is no voltage is there a relay to check, or could it be an immobiliser problem?

My car has an intermittent starting issue, just wanting to know how best to test the fuel pump, and also how to change it. I'm guessing the pump is inside the fuel tank, will this need to be removed? Cheers

Just had alook for tdc sensor, all can see without removing battery box is a green sensor with 3 wires coming from it, does this sound rite? Rung Renault and there are 2 different sensors so need it off to check numbers Cheers

I was thinking along the lines of an immobiliser problem, but the tdc sensor sounds a good starting point, if they arnt working properly can they be checked on diagnostic computers?

when i got it running at work, drove it home, and worked fine for a day or so then happened again, when it wouldnt start on saturday morning, got back home from work in the afternoon and started, and has done ever since

update on this problem, a day later plugged a code reader in and no faults found, then pulled some fuses under the bonnet and cleaned them up, hey presto car started, great sorted it, till saturday morning, same again, tried fuses under bonnet again, this time nothing so cant have been the...

Hi guys, can anyone help, drove car to work as normal, jumped in it to come home and the dam thing won't start, just winding over and not firing, anyone got any ideas what the problem could be? Cheers

im not impressed by the weather either, going to work the other morning, following the tracks in the snow, the deep snow in the middle had turned to ice, make a right raquet under the car, the exhaust has cracked on center box, and the baffles are rattling about inside, not happy, what makes it...

i wouldnt loosen both hinges if your not sure what your doing, doors can be pain to set up! if its dropped you could try loosening the top hinge, you'll need someone to lift the door while you nip one of the bolts up, then try the door again.

a good bodyshop technique that usually works, called brute force, get hold of the door on the bottom edge and a few sharp lifts usually does the trick. if you can feel a little bit of slack when lifting the door the hinges are possibly worn

Were only talking 1 or 2 1/10th of a degree, that should cause any issues at all, my old integrale ran at least 4 degree toe in on the rear with no wear issue, I wudnt be too concerned

quite a time consuming job, but the basics, you need a quality plastic primer, high build 2k primer, basecoat top coat, 2k laquer and a fair few hours to prep it

doesnt the chips away guy have any colour chips? its not usually the customers job to tell what the paint codes are!

has anyone used just lowering springs? im with BenW, im happy with the way my car handles, just needs to be lower. im thinking spring are the way to go for what im after, so long as they havnt been uprated too far!

Is anyone getting them replace on there 3rd year of warranty?

57 r27 62k engine loosening up nicely