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Keyless or key?

Join the forum https://clio197.net/threads/ignition-isolator-for-key-card-vehicles.66593/

Are you keyless? If not use the ignition from the key https://clio197.net/threads/750mc-200-beginner-build.66334/#post-753123

Yeah certainly a relief :coldsweat:

Goodwood is certainly more of a day out, recommend to anyone who is new as you can find your own space but like you mention the queue can be a pain especially when you are trying to test / fix stuff. Lines look good btw, you can brake much much later and harder though.

I realised the other day that you can actually adjust the length of the cup ‘fixed’ steering column by unscrewing 3 bolts however it might be that it only gets shorter (need to check) so this probably doesn’t help. Adjusting the angle does make it closer but probably more like 1cm.

211, haven’t seen the graphs yet. Few caveats in that the map is currently on the conservative side due to it being a fresh build along with Andy mentioning that he often sees an improvement once everything has been run in. Tbh with you all anything greater than zero is a success in my eyes...

She didn’t explode, picking back up on Thursday, geo booked for Monday.

Sadly 50ltrs of fuel is also only 36kg, mine hit the wall at 1090kg ish.

I agree on the holes, removing them might be tricky/expensive but maybe a winter project. Dyno, geo and then full send, assuming the engine doesn't explode, very nervous not going to lie.

Picked up the head from AMS, they had taken less than 3 thou off to just clean it up, spent a while deburring and making sure it was as clean as possible. New head gasket and bolts, used elring this time as the quality from Victor Reitz is questionable, the elring gasket is also slightly...

Is it not possible to accidentally connect fan wire to resistor and vice versa resulting in it spinning in reverse? From memory the connectors are the same.

Do you mean you can hear something spinning but not the engine or something else? If it’s the former it will be the solenoid in the starter motor that has gone.

Ah no this is with a key, I believe its a lot more complicated with the key card...

Thats a good point, would be interesting to see the final spec sheet regarding clearances, assuming they where done.. ACL bearings come up slightly looser than standard, I also imagine the crank was polished due to spinning a bearing initially making the clearances very important. 7 hours? I am...

You want to find the live wire between the fuse box (260) in the centre of dash and the ignition/starter switch (104), the ignition is 104 in this diagram and the fuse is F16, by cutting/disconnecting that wire you would stop the car in the same way as pulling the key.

Have you checked for any leaks at the master? Also worth checking the rectangular hole at the bottom of the gearbox for fluid indicating a leak at the slave.

I can’t find where I read this now so don’t hold me to it, however I remember it being very tight with standard 7.5J.

Yeah 5mm required if using the 8J as the EE bracket fouls on the rim, fairly sure it’s a fix rather than enhancement.

Yeah, 20Nm was what I used when measuring the piston to valve so that I could get an accurate measurement with the gasket compressed before she then came apart to remove the checking springs and torqued correctly.