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Been after these for a while and EBC have them back in stock, paid £170 with free delivery using the code 'RETURN10', https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/ebc-racing-brake-pads-dp81539rpx https://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/ebc-racing-rpx-track-and-race-brake-pads-dp81539rpx_p32534076.htm I will keep this...

Haha no way, forgot to mention you both, thanks for supporting! Very likely to get that printed so you will be on my office wall soon That’s interesting, it really was an amazing car to drive in this race, I just need to replicate in the dry.

I guess I was due to some luck after the past year! R1: P2 Class (P8 overall) R2: P1 Class (class fastest lap) (P5 overall) R3: P2 Class (P9 overall) Was a bit of a rush trying to get the final bits finished over the past few weeks, mostly small things but whilst doing a check on the frontend...

Yeah, I got it from frogjam, not OE but the quality is good https://frogjammotorsport.co.uk/products/crankshaft-damped-pulley?_pos=2&_sid=d53f8b232&_ss=r

Hmm, it's weird as mine will do it when hot or cold but triggered by revving over ~2.5k, it's like the TB is stuck open slightly.

70 laps, 60 litres of fuel and zero issues (on the track). I was starting to get nervous about not having tested the engine so booked a very last minute (night before) track day at Combe yesterday. Supposed to be racing here next month and the weather looked good so thought it would be worth...

Awesome! That has suddenly made me very nervous

Took the afternoon off last Friday and got the engine in and running. I took the hit and replaced the clutch, I got to the point of putting the old one on before deciding, it just didn’t feel right when torqueing, as if the pressure plate had lost some of its ‘pressure’ I had the engine upside...

90% sure you will need to depin and rewire, relatively simple once you have access.

Ah man that really sucks, looks like you where going well :thumb: I watched a Yaris spin at the same spot but they ended up hitting the barrier on the left and ending up upside down. Have you got the catalyst app? Would be interesting to compare...

Not yet, I have just stripped some parts, going to pull the head when I have the car back together.

The racers used a 28mm stop, I just doubled mine up but sounds like a 3d printer job.

No, there is a sensor on the clutch pedal which I believe the ECU reacts on which may need adjusting or is faulty although it does sound like an air leak of some sort.

Check the clutch sensor under the pedal as well

Standard is 15V ± 0.5, check the connections but it is normally pointing to the regulator on the way out which is cheaper fix than a replacement if you want to try that first 'F00M144131'

The obvious answer is oil pressure but then you would expect the big ends to suffer but they are always in much better condition. I have read that the crank tends to have an imbalance which causes it which makes more sense.

I have gone with the wise decision, purchased a 99k engine (F4R 832) a few weeks ago from AshG for £600, service history from new and came with everything but manifold and TB which I think is a very good price considering what some are wanting on fb. Ash even chucked in an ECU which I have got...

Wasn’t that to clear the lip on the 8j wheels?

Probably a bit late now as you don’t want to impact the geo but can you not spin the damper or has the gaz got a plate preventing it? I am on 4 deg now and it seems extreme but there was a ex racer in the garage next to me and that was close to 5 deg and was also considerably lower. Would love...

Remove the tensioner pulley?