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Have you checked the oil level on the dipstick? I find 5.1ltr with a filter change would put it at max. Regarding the flush I would never use something like that unless I was going to drop the sump and give it a proper clean afterwards even then not sure it’s worth the risk.

Its pure manifold attached to an Akra with a 200 cell cat welded in between. The smack was annoyance for having to lift slightly on the exit as I went in a bit too hot :sweatsmile: Ah no, I was bedding in some new DS1.11 which I forgot to mention.

Finally bolted on the splitter I have been working on for a while, car looked awesome. Fell off on lap 1, luckily just one side so was able to get back to the pits with the smell of burning ply. I severely underestimated the amount of downforce it would create having bolted it to the...

I would assume fresh tyres will help but I imagine the cause is your spring rates, now you have fixed the RC the frontend is too stiff relative to the rear.

Agreed, I think seat time is the answer. In my case it was 100% the pads as the issue went when I switched back. Yeah clios do like an aggressive driver, braking late / over braking and the momentum just dies.

Last minute booking at Snetterton with MSV last Thursday, decided the drive was worth the £200 saving over Brands and I needed some practice. Pleasant surprise to bump into @Helpimonfire as I was pulling the car off the trailer. I think it was about 90% race cars who all had the same idea...

There isn't that much of an overlap so once mapped it was set to 1072 although this was with high comp pistons.

Potentially main seal, I would give it a good clean up with some brake cleaner and try and see where it comes from.

Yes I did in the race engine before it dropped a valve, they are basically a direct copy of catcams 403 without the timing issues sometimes faced with catcams. Send Lee an email at piper and I am sure he can sort you out a good price :wink:

I think it needs to be 32bit

I will force myself to test all three next time I am out, no feed, feed and upside down. My only concern is the heat from the rad as I imagine it’s pointing directly at/above it.

I decided this was the cheap/quick option but might go down the air feed through the light if this works, not a fan of no lights though tbh. Yep, I was going to photoshop you both out :grin:

Got the car stripped down and did a full nut and bolt check, only bolt slightly out of spec was the bump steer kit nut that goes into the track rods. I torque it over spec at 30Nm but seems to loosen anyway, has now become part of ‘post track check’. Looks like during Combe I lost a fire...

I can assure you its less irritating then going through a front set of direzzas in a single day :tearsofjoy:

Interested to know what they say as all of mine are the same but tbh I think I am just going to replace the ends with sphericals next time I get an alignment

Had lots of plans to fix/improve things as well as a track day to try and find some dry pace with these tyres but just didn’t get anywhere before running out of time. Had a brief visit to Andy at ED to confirm power and see if the idle/TB issue could be diagnosed. Car made 199.5HP / 163FtLb...

I believe it can if the sensor is not calibrated, I think you can reset it in CLIP

How confident are you its not mechanical? Swivels / loose track rod ends etc. Also worth checking the steering rack column/UJ bolt by the pedals.

Gentle reminder to check the toe if you have had the hubs off

AD09 seem to be the middle ground, fast as Direzza, similar to AO52 in the wet but don't wear as much, just seem to be limited on sizing at the moment.