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is it possible to get rid of the, quite frankly horrendous, steering cooling cowl, but kept the main control stalks (lights, wipers etc?) I’ve stripped my interior and replaced the steering wheel and the giant slab of plastic is now on show. ive no stereo any more soI’m not worried about...

Does anyone know if the bracket is specific to the RS models or if it’s the same on all Clio’s? finding any brackets at a breakers seems to be something of a challenge. I’ve also heard nothing back from RPD on new OEM lines!

We’re now going WAY off topic, but I don’t suppose you happen to have a design for the front brake hose brackets for 3D printing? The previous owner of mine replaced the brackets with P clips when they switched to braided lines and they don’t hold the hoses out of the way of the wheel properly...

4point road legal harnesses with a standard click buckle shouldn’t be too much of a pain. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/omp-road-4-harness-246016/

Replace it with a set of harnesses. If you’re not going that route, Maybe a Velcro tab on the buckle and corresponding piece on the B pillar to stick it to.

Excellent news! Gutting when things go wrong, but great that a company takes accountability and sorts it out. You can’t ever stop there being issues 100% of the time, so it’s the way you deal with it that sets you apart.

Cheers!

Spot on. I see taking another look at your pic thats a bracket with the two clips on, is that standard? I have the two rubber bits on the hose to clip in, but not the bracket itself.

Cheers. That’s a bit different to mine. Mine have a screw clip on the top and I don’t think have the two clips that you are routing through. (Mines an 07 if that makes any difference). Yours seem to hold the line back much further from the wheel and closer to the damper. Interesting to note...

Evening all, Can anyone confirm the routing of the front brake hoses? (With pics maybe?) Previous owner replaced the lines with hell braided hoses but I think he’s routed them incorrectly. They’ve been rubbing on the inside edge of the alloy on full lock and started to wear. Now I’ve switched...

Ignore me. They’re M10’s but the 4 packets of M10s I bought from Halfords were actually M8. And stainless not HT either…

Does anyone know the correct size / where to buy replacement bolts to mount the seat/seat mounts to the car. (A 197) I’ve pulled out the standard seats and replaced with buckets and for now used the standard T40 Torx to mount my SW Motorsport direct replacement seat mounts. I’d like to...

I don’t have a JP cage but they are similar to the plates on my SW motorsports. They just bolt in underneath.

No worries, and good luck! I know how gutting it is to wait for something and then it not be quite right. I’d also suggest giving JP a call for advice. Have you checked YouTube for install videos?

I’m personally no expert, and it’s quite difficult to diagnose from a couple of pictures, but someone else on the forum (may not have been this one) had a problem with their cage not coming out of the jig quite right and then struggling for ages to fit it. If the legs are both in identical...

I get that, but 120nm of torque to undo a bolt is the same pressure and stress on a wrench as 120nm torque to tighten a bolt. Sure, If a bolt is hot it might take more to release it than initially did it up, but like I said, the bar is rated 80+ Nm more than I tighten them.

If you can’t use them as a ratchet to undo bolts that you’ve used to torque them, then why does it have a switch to change direction? I absolutely get that you shouldn’t be using it to release bolts that have seized or not been released in a decade but if it can apply 120nm torque one way, why...

Does anyone have any experience / knowledge of ATech seats? I’m looking for some buckets for my 197 which will be used mainly as a track car and a set of these have come up: https://raceandrally.com/atech-easy-racing-seat But I’ve never heard of ATech before. They are FIA approved apparently...

Yeah, I’ll be using my torque wrench to release them and then a gun (drill) to spin the nut off. Studs are supposed to be quicker for a wheel change but if you have to sling the nuts on by hand you’d be there for ever!

Ok. So I wasn’t missing something or miscalculating wildly, they just don’t need to be that tight! Cheers!