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I don't _think_ it can be bought individually - subframe support brace is what I'd use to describe it.

How does the inside of the disc look?

I'd expect those ones to be more expensive than they are - especially given they're titanium. Better than a hex head too imo (clearance for undoing etc). Might pick one up.

@RSRowe any luck?

Definitely check crank sensor, and that it's plugged in properly - my car randomly stopped once and it was because the crank sensor had partially become unplugged.

What happened to the first? :o I've attached an image from my gearbox a few weekends ago. You'll see circled, there is a slot where the mechanism arm slots into - this lifts up and down to select the gears (and rotates forwards and backwards via the other selector mechanism (this one is sprung...

Brief update... spent some time detailing the car, got front bumper painted, added a RenaultSport splitter. Took the engine out a couple of weekends ago, sorted heatshield whilst I was there. Replaced starter motor heatshield with a bolted one to avoid the issues I suffered at the Nurburging...

I replaced the ring gear bolts - there is less thread engagement in the Val Racing diff with original bolts due to it being thicker. It took me ages and ages to find some bolts that fit without cutting down.

I had my gearbox apart/fitted it over the last few weeks. I don't remember it having that much play. Didn't @Northloopcup build your box? He'll definitely know :-)

I've had this issue, took strut, driveshaft and hub out in one and then pressed it out - it seems fairly common. Make sure to use plenty of copperslip when re-assembling.

Checked the fuse box in engine bay, theres a 20a or 25a fuse which it might be.

Alex at AWMotorworks will sort you out, belts under £500 iirc.

Ball joints, wishbone bushes are the top things I'd say. Top mounts too if not included. Buy new swivel and ARB links, they're cheap and not worth messing around with.

I think realistically, buying the correct springs is your only option.

I believe the Febi one may have been slightly stiffer compared to OEM - that's a good thing though! Glad it solved your problem, well worth £20-25 IMO.

Honestly mate, I wouldn't waste too much time. Try what I suggested - rev to 5k in 1st, with foot on the clutch - car shouldn't move one bit.

They live under one of the diff bearing cups.

If the clutch bleed doesn't work it might be the cover/clutch failure, seems fairly common these. You could do a test by dropping the clutch and revving it up to 5/6k in 1st - should be no creep. Where are you based?

How are you removing it? If you take the front-end off, taking the lot out in one go is easier. Just means you need to replace the gearbox oil.

Thanks for this! I actually bought a separator which fits under the input shaft bearing (105-150mm one did the trick!). Sorry for yet another question (I'm learning - had fun so far!). Replacing the diff/diff bearings - shimming wise, the manual doesn't seem to cover it - is there anything...