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Because of the rotation of the ARB bush holder has to do to remove the lip out the subframe, the ARB needs to go backwards (towards the bulkhead) and such fowls at numerous places.

....good question, after tonight I don't know. Removed the subframe with no problem. The cup wishbones I have both have buggered ball joints and new arms are not cheap. Tried removing the ball joints but ended up fecking the arms up. Oh well

you need of fully drop the subframe to change the ARB bushes, as the ARB mounts have one bolt and the other side has a lip that goes into the subframe, which you can only remove out when the mount is rotated backwards. At the end of the end of the day is what works for you, I've just dropped my...

There the same, front is taken from the underside face of the subframe at the bottom arm bush (rear bush) to ground. The rear is taken from the bolt on the rear axle pivot bush, this also to ground.

Problem of leaving the rack in place is getting to all the bolts on the sub frame, however i've not persevered down this route . I went by splitting the column/steering rack knuckle inside the foot well. All you have to do is ensure you make some reference markings, you shouldnt be to far off as...

@Povey Yes....what you have is right. I have a copy of the cup manual on the suspension and all of these dimensions are right. Do you know where to measure from? EDIT - ignore the last remark, just seen the first page

@TB Rich ...I'll drop you a PM after I've brought all the parts together ready for the rebuild and whats surplus put to one side. Shiny CNC stuff is never a overkill

@TB Rich Open to discussion(£), Let me get them off the hubs and give them a good going over, if your only wanting for measuring up, would you mind having the worst set?

Garage is now fitted out a little more , bought a cheap kitchen from Travis Perkins. Axle?...this had already been done by Mitch at Pro-line.

Thanks Try to

so do I, scary thing is I probably enjoy building it rather than driving it!

@Tutuur Drop us a PM

Yeh got them, just forgot to mention. Not cheap at £65 a end though. Caught up with thread some time ago, so have a handle the pro's and cons. However budget is spirally out of control so may have a rethink on a full cup swap out at present. Plus I need to get the car back on the black stuff...

Just a small update, back end rebuilt with a few new bits and pieces. Arches tided up, not brilliant but it will do. Found powerflex do a general exhaust back hanger rubber similar to Renault dimensions but half the price. So out with the lube.... Now onto the front. Sent from my...

old git at 30!!!.....fecking hell wait till you get to 50!....you'll become a supermoaner like me!!

Looking good, be interested to see what Geo your going for, especially at the rear. I've fully removed the rear axle and going over everything as well as fitting coilers, so I'm at a ideal place for shimming so be interested to hear yours.

. Originals never come out unless with a angle grinder.

Never had any problems declaring everything I had done, however I went to a specialist insurer who deals with performance cars, not your usual meerkat companies. Like Johnny 99 mentioned, after my remap I got back what had been lost due to renault over egging there laboratory test figure. I...

I agree its the knock sensor being the main culprit. ECU going into protect mode by backing the timing off. Sensor there to detect detonation, fuel flashing off on multiple fronts due to to higher pressure in the chamber and or too higher temperature (lean burn).

Accelerator pedal position sensor? Get a fault code reader plugged in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk