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I agree with this. Up the tire pressures so you dont flatspot them, and dont top up the tank. Gasoline starts to separate after only a few months, so youll want to leave room to get fresh fuel in the tank.

Sorry I might have instigated that threadjack :-P

This is what I thought - kicking up a rear wheel = maximum turn in. But for the guys running stiffer fronts, I wonder how their lap times compare to the opposite setup on the same track?

I thought cup cars ran a stiffer rear spring rate - but I see a number of people with custom spring rates go the other way. What's the rationale? I am curious as I have KW clubsports which I believe are just 430ish square, and I am debating getting custom springs for the rear.

And I use this set for the brake pedal - grip tape ftw!

I run this throttle pedal to help with heel-toe on track days.

Definitely 60L. I'll bet that extra 5 is the reserve beyond 0 on the gauge.

I did change the slave cylinder to a TRW part, but kept the clutch the same as it had plenty of life on it.

So I had issues were I couldnt get into the gate on track, which came down to early wear signs of the synchros for me. No crunching or anything, but I couldn't downshift into a lower gear if I was abov 6k rpm. Did the gearbox rebuild and it resolved the issue. First stop I would try would be...

Thanks @turkie172 !! The bolt does engage the axle, but instead of having another 10-15mm of thread going into the axle, only like 2-3mm is showing. I am not comfortable with that little margin for error on the bolt that holds the rear shock on the axle, and want to find other options. I am...

Hi guys, I am looking for the spec / type of bolt used at the bottom of the shock to connect it to the rear beam axle. I recently purchased a DNA racing rear sway bar and they mount via drop links to this point, which takes something like 20mm of the bolt length and causes the bolt to just...

Toyo + tune = more fun clio. Mine felt much more responsive and had better midrange acceleration after both mods.

What about an N series motor? Or K series :smilingimp:

You must have cleared 1000k by now?! How is is the Baguette holding up with the Japanese heart?

First thing would be to check for a torn boot over the CV joints on both driveshafts. After that, see if there is any signs of grease leaking out from the boots, and then see if there is excessive play from the joint.

Theres a thread on here where someone did back to back dyno runs with the various cams. Have a search.

CV joints okay? No leaks from the boots?

I bought a set of ProTrack One's 7.5x17 (https://www.pro-track.de/) - weighed in as advertised at 7.6kgs per wheel. Pretty economical too. Only come in ET45, so you need to run a 40 section tire or you will have rubbing issues on the fender with a lowered car.

Do you have early or late style topmounts? I think AST is only early style

Value for money, they are hard to beat. I have been running mine for almost 3 track day seasons now 4-6x a year) and it has held up just fine on street and UHP tires. Did 1 sessions last year on AR1s and got the same corner exit grip I came to expect, so no issues there.